Valletta blog - Malta

On the map

2010-03-20T21:47:00.001+01:00

April 1st sees the start of a project that will place Valletta on the map. The Financial Times today features the project that will transform the entrance to the city:

It is 1565 and the Knights of St John have just recorded a famous victory over the advancing Ottoman Turks by resisting a four-month-long siege against their adopted home of Malta. How do they celebrate? Protracted feasting? Grand displays of vanity and hubris? No, they immediately start building. Galvanised by the fear of further raids, they erect what will become the fortifications for – and are still defining structures of – Valletta, the Maltese capital.

Flash forward a few hundred years and a similar sense of urgency again pervades in the southern Mediterranean island state, even if this time the stakes are not as high. Once more, Valletta stands poised at the brink of an epoch-defining construction project – perhaps the largest in scale since the knights’ initial undertaking. The historical comparison might seem a stretch but Malta is a place in which the past is ever present and it confronts the visitor at almost every turn – something that has led Italian architect Renzo Piano to note that “Valletta is full of ghosts”.

Old Valletta

2010-02-01T09:00:00.002+01:00

Just thought I'd share these pictures of life in Valletta in the past:

Old Valletta - MALTA

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The Maltese Chav

2010-01-31T20:45:00.002+01:00

A word I came across often in childhood was one which portrayed the bogeyman of social standing, the one label you avoided, the ultimate condescending insult. Here, Dr Mark-Anthony Falzon, Head of the Sociology Department at the University of Malta dares to tackle the social connotations of the word - ħamallu.

So, who are the ħamalli? We tend to use the word in two ways. First, to describe individuals who are boorish, crass, loud, and the rest. One can be a ħamallu generally, as in a life project, or episodically, as in a lapse or moment of rudeness. There may, on occasion, be a certain subversive delight in performing ħamallaġni - the Prince of Hanover urinating in public sort of thing.

Which brings us to the second usage, which has to do with class rather than individuals. To a certain middle-class eye, the ħamalli are people who are fond of hoop earrings, mullet hairstyles, flashy cars referred to in the masculine, tile-clad façades, and frilly wedding dresses. They also tend to address people as 'ħi', talk of 'dik' and 'dak', and flail their arms wildly as they do so.

Ħamallaġni is thought to be a territorial animal, in Malta as elsewhere. Jeremy Clarkson, for example, commonly mocks the 'Cheshire-ishness' of car spoilers and alloy wheels, and the 'Croydon facelift' is not a compliment in contemporary British culture. No prizes for guessing which parts of Malta are imagined to be the prime lumpen candidates.

Things get more interesting if we consider the antonym of ħamalli. 'Puliti''s the word, and it means all those who abhor hoop earrings, mullet lifestyles, and so on. When they blaspheme, they do so in private. If they speak Maltese in public at all, they make sure they soften their 'r's. Ħamalli call this effete, but what do ħamalli know.

Puliti are also keen to maintain a certain aristocratic hauteur. Things like festa and regatta, which involve verve and passion, are not for them. (Incidentally it may well be that the recent Church document on 'restoring' feasts is also a class discourse.) Nor are a bit of noise and fun - puliti weddings, for example, are boring affairs where people stand around talking politics in hushed-up voices. So far so clear, but there are two problems. First, one man's ħamallu is another man's pulit, and it is in fact very difficult objectively to be the latter. One could always move to Ibraġ (soft 'r' at all times), run a family hatchback, wear greys and browns, and pretend not to know the neighbours. As much fun as slitting one's wrists, and less colourful. If we add to this the terrifying possibility of arriviste pulit-hood, there really is no escape.

Second, the word is hardly clinical. I wouldn't recommend walking up to Mr B.I.G. Silencer and explaining he's a ħamallu. Whether or not he thinks he's pulit, you're going to come away with one very black eye indeed. You'd deserve it too, because it's not nice to call people names. Ħamallu, then, is a derogatory word, and pulit a complimentary one.

A facelift for St Magdalen?

2010-01-08T19:53:00.006+01:00

Anyone who has stayed at Valletta G-House will have noticed a pretty old church at the top of North Street in dire need of TLC. Ok, this is speculation on my part, but could it be that it's in line to be restored to its original glory?

According to the Malta Independent today, the deconsecrated church (I don't think it's 'desecrated', Ms. Borg) will no longer be used as a store for Carnival floats because veteran enthusiast Pawlu Curmi, well known for his creative creations, has been instructed by the authorities to clear the building.

As much as I feel for Mr Curmi (hopefully he'll land on his feet and find a better place to store his creations), I can't but be happy at the idea of what could be in store for the church.

If I am not mistaken the church was dedicated to Mary Magdalen and it is the one that in the past served the Magdalene Asylum for poor and abandoned young women who were in danger of ending up in prostitution, also referred to in Catholic circles as Magdalens.

I'm intrigued to know if there is already a planning application as well as plans to restore the church.

Kinky metal wear

2010-01-08T10:44:00.002+01:00

The Guardian's Jonathan Jones writes about armour in art:

The artist Willem de Kooning once said oil painting was invented in order to portray flesh. He might just as well have said it was created to convey the metallic gleam of armour.

Men regularly wore metal in the 15th century, when oil painting first came into its own, and some of the greatest European painters were fascinated by the strange sartorial splendour of the battlefield and tournament.

You can visit the titillating armour in the Grandmaster's Palace in Palace Square when parliament is not in session.
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Are you ready for a blast of colour?

2010-01-07T10:19:00.006+01:00

Carnival 2010 (or il-Karnival as it is known in Malta) will kick off on 12 February this year and it will bring a much awaited injection of colour to Valletta. Here are some pictures from last year's Carnival.

History books were wrong on arid land

2010-01-04T22:34:00.005+01:00

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An article on the Times of Malta today reports new evidence that contradicts the common myth that Valletta was built on arid land.

Mount Sceberras had been chosen by Grand Master Jean de la Valette as the site to build the new capital city after the Great Siege in 1565.

Described in most local history books as a barren outcrop, arid or rocky, the hill had to be levelled before construction could start in 1566 and completed with bastions, forts and the cathedral, all in 15 years.

The new evidence refuting the long-repeated theory came to light last February during the first excavations at St George’s Square by the Valletta Rehabilitation Project.

The oldest part of the square dates back to classical period (circa 8 AD - 395 AD) and investigations revealed rock-cut features. However, fragments of pottery dating back to the late medieval period indicated that the area was still covered by agricultural land until it was built over, Mr Borg said.

“Enough evidence was collected to prove that this was the site of intense ancient and medieval agricultural occupation. This challenges the often-repeated idea that Sceberras Height was just an outcrop of wasteland before the founding of Valletta by the Knights in 1567,” he said.

Citta' Magica

2009-12-30T21:14:00.004+01:00

The 9th of January holds a few surprises to those visiting or staying in Valletta. Citta Magica follows the events of Notte Bianca and Notte Magica. The only difference is the event caters for creatures of the day as well as those of the night. Citta Magica starts at noon and will go on until midnight.

The newly restored St George's square will feature heavily but events will also be spread out in other parts of the city such as Merchants Street and Freedom Square. Visitmalta.com lists the events taking place.

All the events are within walking distance from Valletta G-House.
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Hearses with horses

2009-09-24T07:55:00.004+02:00

Some time ago, in Sicily I noticed a funny thing happening when a funeral cortege passed by. Some of the male onlookers touched themselves - a superstitious habit that I have not noticed elsewhere. Not a thing of elegance, I'm sure. The Times of Malta has recently reported the entrepreneurial idea of a local businessman who is reintroducing the beautifully poised and dignified carriages of the past to the Maltese islands.

Horse-drawn carriage hearses were last seen on our streets some 40 years ago but an undertaker has dug up his collection and is breathing new life into them, following public demand. Louis Borg's resurrection of the horse-drawn hearses comes in the wake of the liberalisation of the motorised market, which led him to diversify, giving him the edge over double the competitors he had before.

Now he is bringing back from the dead his first-class carriage (tal-kewba), which was used by "rich Sliema residents"; the prima and sekonda, which are for lower levels of society respectively, but equally elaborate to the fresh eye; and the white version for babies and single women.

The set comprises the priest's carriage, which would also transport the altar boy dressed as he would have back then and carrying the large cross, sticking out of the window as tradition would have it.

The little shop of follies

2009-08-24T17:09:00.007+02:00

"Cafe du Brazil" by Evilpainter

This morning I met my friend Frank who is managing director of Hugo's Tapas in St George's Bay, for a coffee in Birgu. The city is all set for the second village feast this month (don't ask me which patron saint this one's dedicated to) so there's a feeling of celebration in the air.

Frank's been a great support to me with problems I have encountered lately. We had a pleasant conversation inside Caffe du Brazil in Victory Square and, before Frank left to prepare for gym, he mentioned a little boutique had opened in G. Cassar Street. (Walk up Hilda tabone street and turn right into Cassar Street)

Follie is indeed a sweet little shop. No bland chain shop material - every item is lovingly sourced, some original items sewn by owner Monique herself. Spent a good half an hour chatting and looking at the accessories, gifts and unique pieces all around me.

Most of all I fell in love with the cushions inspired by Maltese traditional tiles. Perhaps I should get a couple for Valletta G-House. They'll fit in splendidly with the bedroom tiles. Monique even said I can have my own choice of colours. Monique can be reached on +356 99891722 or on her e-mail. For Birgu take buses 1 or 4 from Valletta Gate.

Summer festa

2009-08-22T18:00:00.004+02:00

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Anyone who's in Malta at this time of year will come across whole villages dressed to kill with elaborate banners and festoons, colourful lights and lovingly painted lifesize models of saints and angels that look down from pedestals made to look like marble. I have always admired the amount of effort, money and craftsmanship that goes into the setting this all up even though it only lasts all of three days to a week. Then again, when you think about it, the same effort goes into the amazing costumes and floats of the carnival in Rio and the massive glossy statues in Valenzia's great bonfire feast in March (The Fallas).

This year I decided to experience the evening festivities and the procession with the patron saint for myself. I had heard of the loyalty and devotion to the saint and to the statue's beauty itself. I must admit to having always found this a bit too close to idolatry for comfort. On one pleasant summer night in a small village in the south of Malta I experienced first hand the saint/statue's loyal following. As the statue was carried shoulder high throughout the streets, a group of supporters walked backwards before the statue, facing it and shouting out sweet little poems dedicated to the saint/statue and clapping until they're blue in the face and hoarse.

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Gay Pride in Valletta

2009-07-15T21:27:00.005+02:00

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This week sees various activities for DiversCity, culminating in the Pride March this Saturday. Pride March is about visibility. It's a celebration of diversity. It's there to voice the wish that same sex relationships are recognised by Maltese law. Its also about a bit of fun and should not be seen as antagonistic toward the rest of society. It's as much about inclusivity as about individuality.

Some have commented that the colourful dressing up, common in more well attended Gay Pride Marches in other cities all over the world, are hardly the best way for LGBTs to be taken seriously and to be assimilated within the mainstream. I have known various gay men who describe themselves as 'straight acting'. They are adamant that what they call men with a camp disposition, those who stand out for not fitting into the grey stereotype of the 'virile' man, are a disservice to other gay men. They are equally scornful of lesbians who's demeanor fall short of what they expect women to look and act like. Their use of the phrase 'straight acting' to describe themselves is a clear sign of their repression, and how unwilling they are to accept the beauty of diversity. Assimilation does not mean melting into a mulch of indistinguishable sameness. It means enriching an already heterogeneous society.

Gay Pride is, above all, a celebration of diversity. That is not to say that the fight for equality is not also part and parcel of Pride. Fighting to change the law so that it recognises same sex civil partnership does not mean playing the victim as some would have us believe. And it is not an impossible task, even when one considers the staid two party system ruled by a powerful church institution Malta is lumped with. Look at Spain. It looks as though Ireland will be following suit too. Both have a very strong Catholic Church and yet they acknowledge the need for society to encourage stable partnerships of love.

Here is the programme of events prepared by MGRM. Hope to see you in Valletta on Saturday.

Mon 13 July: Film festival - 'Ma vie en rose' (released 1997; run-time 88 minutes) St James Cavalier, Valletta

Tue 14 July: Film festival - 'Bent' (released 1997; run-time 105 minutes) St James Cavalier, Valletta

Wed 15 July: Women Space. GAIA Foundation, Ghajn Tuffieha

Thurs 16 July: Film festival - 'I can't think straight' (released 2007; run-time 80 minutes) St James Cavalier, Valletta

Sat 18 July (10:00am at City Gate Valletta): PRIDE MARCH
Sat 18 July (20:30): Concert performance with The Pink Singers (London) and Zghazagh Haddiema Nsara choirs. City Theatre, Valletta
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Malta Arts Festival and Censorship

2009-07-12T17:51:00.008+02:00

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It does not augur well for the annual Malta Arts Festival when the Arts Council decides to exclude an installation by artist Raphael Vella from a collective at 68 St Lucy Street.

It is not the first instance that the Maltese islands have been in the news for censorship. This year, the play “Stitching” was banned on moral grounds (Case is pending in court) and, egged on by Gozo Bishop Msgr. Mario Grech, police arrested a group of young men who dressed as Jesus during the Nadur carnival celebrations.

All is not doom and gloom for the 2009 Arts Festival. The Malta Jazz Festival has returned to its original form, taken away from the hands of purely commercial private interests. The annual Jazz Festival will hopefully become a fixed appointment on the calendar of many a true jazz enthusiasts, both local and foreign.
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Piano piano, quickly.

2009-07-07T13:58:00.005+02:00

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Is Valletta finally getting the entrance that it deserves and in such a short period of time? The time line in the brief to world renowned architect Renzo Piano is completion in four years.

A friend of mine was adamant that I should go visit the Museum of Archeology where Renzo Piano's concept plans for Valletta are showing. I was not to be disappointed. Piano's new entrance will put Valletta on the map. I thought I'd share some photos of the exhibition with you.

An overview of the plans

The back of the Parliament building

The new City Gate

The open air theatre

Parliament exterior stonework

I do suggest you take the opportunity to go and have a look for yourselves. The exhibition explained some of the thought process behind the plans. Seeing the plans in three dimensions gives one a clearer picture. There is also a presentation of the kind of thing that can be achieved visually in the theatre.

The new entrance to Valletta

2009-06-27T09:34:00.003+02:00

Great expectations in Valletta today as this evening world renowned architect Renzo Piano himself will unveil his plans for City Gate. A hand-built model of the project plans will be the main attraction in this long awaited launch outside the Museum of Archeology. The grand ceremony will also be televised live.

Piano interviewed on Bondi+
Renzo Piano Building Workshop

Square by Christmas

2009-05-19T13:53:00.004+02:00

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Various projects are mapped out for the north side of Valletta. There have been reports of a luxury hotel planned just up the road from Valletta G-House (where the Evans Lab building stands now), a boutique hotel where the fish market and the Rural Affairs Ministry now stands (as reported by The Malta Independent on Sunday 17 May 2009), and the development of Fort St Elmo into a centre for cultural and leisure activities with cruise liner berthing in the harbour below.

These are projects that will take some years to materialise. However, the transformation of the Palace Square from unappealing car park into an embellished pedestrianised square is to be ready by this Christmas. The proposed design (see picture) is to feature a lit water installation with 14 jets of water of different heights, lighting fixtures, public wi-fi and street furniture.

The Knights had built a fountain in the square to celebrate the piping of water into Valletta.
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Bakeries in Malta

2009-05-18T11:19:00.005+02:00

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My uncle and aunt ran a bakery in Żabbar. Their day started early before sunrise and aunt Berna drove around town in a white van delivering their freshly baked bread. I very much recall as a child being sent to our local bakery in Tarxien to buy bread. Wicked rascals such as my young self would dig out a hole in the soft core of the bread, annoying our mothers no end. It was also common for households that lacked an oven in the home to make use of the services of the bakery to cook their Sunday roast or their għaġin il-forn (oven baked pasta). This is from a short story by Carmen Debono in a book printed by Midsea Books - Top Ten Tales of Malta 1977.

The bakery was cosy and warm. There were long low trestle tables where people placed their dishes and were given metal tickets for receipts. Long muslin-like sheets covered the tables to keep the food clean until it was time to be put in the oven. There were about six women gossiping when I went in. One of them detached herself from the group and came forward to meet me. She wore a white overall and looked both brisk and efficient. So this one was the one in charge of this bakery, I thought. I was relieved as I had expected a man to be in charge. I was soon to change my mind, however, about her. She lifted the sheet on one of the tables and showed me where to place my dish. She then stopped an stared.

'You's better change that dish,' she said, 'as it will break in the oven.'

Very sure of myself, I said that it was oven-proof and there was no question of it breaking. The lady pursed her lips and looked at the other women, who had stopped talking in order to listen. I thought she was going to insist on my changing the dish but, instead, she took another look at the contents. I squirmed, thinking that I might have left an eye or two while peeling the potatoes. But no.

'You'd better add some liquid to the dish,' she added. 'This oven is hotter than the ones in home cookers, and things dry up quickly.'

Bakery in Valletta:
Old Theatre Street (the stretch between Merchants' Street and St Pauls' Street)
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New kid on the blog

2009-05-03T22:32:00.004+02:00

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This blogging thing is becoming habitual. As a certain articulate chap said, I can resist anything but temptation. An invitation came my way to guest blog on Robert Micallef's WIRED MALTA and I gracefully accepted (as elegant an undertaking of the sort can possibly be). The one strand of entries I am mostly excited about is a story that will be published in episodes. The story takes place in the town of Birgu (one of the Three Cities) and no doubt you will recognise quite a few locations and landmarks if you follow it. So far, only the first episode has been published, introducing our heroine, a British woman who has just moved to Malta and is in search of a house to buy.
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Fireworks festival postponed

2009-04-29T13:45:00.003+02:00

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The Malta International Fireworks Festival, which was to be held tomorrow and the day after at the Grand Harbour, has had to be postponed due to a mechanical fault in the ship carrying some of the fireworks. The organiser of the festival, the Malta Tourism Authority, said it is doing its utmost to hold the festival on Friday and Saturday.
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Telling pictures

2009-04-22T17:41:00.003+02:00

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The Three Graces at the Irxoxt (Holy Week Celebrations) in Birgu

One Foot in the Grave (M'Xlokk - fishing village)
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Tea with your sugar?

2009-04-19T16:57:00.007+02:00

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In Marrakech people love sugar with their tea. In the UK, I grow mint in our conservatory just so as to be able to make tea in those beautifully decorated Moroccan glasses and remember the Hideous Kinky city. In the UK tea with milk used to be the drink that embodied Britishness even though the number of coffee chains now well exceeds that of English tea parlours. Which hot drink is it that makes you think of Malta? Mark Anthony Falzon writes about the ħanut tat-te' on today's Sunday Times.

John, a close relative of mine who is not Maltese, told me the other day how he had been charged 30 (euro) cents for a coffee in Vittoriosa. He wasn't complaining of course, and in fact asked me how come the cost of living in Malta was so heart-warming. It turned out he had forgotten two important details. First, the place was a 'men's bar', as he put it; second, the coffee had come in a glass.

This then was John's first brush with what we might call the 'Maltese coffee shop' - or, as better known, the ħanut tat-titotla (lit. 'teetotal bar'). I'm sure it won't be his last. He happens to dabble somewhat, and rather effectively, in anthropology and will no doubt be familiar with the saying that the way to a culture's heart is through its coffee. Or rather the context of its drinking it.

How 'Maltese' are the ħwienet tat-titotla? I'd say as Maltese as it gets, which simply means that we tend to read into them for elements of 'Malteseness'. Thus the noisy atmosphere will be interpreted as our 'natural Latin rowdiness', the whiff of illegitimate cigarette smoke as our national disrespect for law and order, and the heaps of pastizzi flakes as the sign of a generally unhealthy population.

We might add that the Maltese coffee shop is unique in that tea, rather than coffee, is the favoured choice. Which brings our history, in this case our take on British heritage, into the equation. Italians often complain that we couldn't make a 'proper' coffee at gunpoint, and they're probably right. We can't make coffee all'italiana simply because we are not Italian, and don't want to be. But we also prefer our tea not to come in a cup, or in the company of watercress sandwiches.

The joys of being a host

2009-04-19T07:31:00.011+02:00

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These few months I have been here in Malta due to other commitments has given me the opportunity to meet with our Valletta G-House guests. Unlike a B&B or a hotel, ours is a private town house (we originally did the place up for ourselves) and so we like to make our guests feel special, like old friends who have come to stay. The preparation is part of the joy of being a host and I shall miss doing this when I return to the UK and hand the job over to my dad again.

Our florist

Day starts with a visit to our florist early in the morning before he gets busy. The flowers go in the bedroom upstairs, so the flowers cannot be cottagey but neither too formal. I have always thought fresh flowers bring a nice touch to a house, something no inanimate decoration can.

Welcome pack

It's the little extras in the welcome pack that make it that little bit more special. Lately we've taken to putting in Italian espresso coffee (Lavazza) and a sweet small moka pot just for two. It does make a pleasant change from the horrible taste of instant coffee. The fresh fruit, depending on the season give a local feel to the woven basket. The Maltese bread, wine and Galletti (biscuits) are a staple part of the welcome basket. It's not the first time that there is a final mad rush to soource one or another of the welcome pack contents especially if it's a Sunday or public holiday. Other basic groceries such as milk and mineral water are of course also taken care of.

And finally it's making sure I'm at Malta International Airport to welcome our guests personally. I keep an eye on the Arrivals page via my computer because it is not the first time that flights are not on time.
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Mingle with a medieval mob

2009-04-15T20:04:00.007+02:00

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Mdina is a superb city. I've frequently compared it to Joan Collins - It's so well preserved it looks the same as it did in it's heyday, but without the smut. Most Valletta G-House guests love it (Mdina, not the smut), while some complain it is too immaculate, lacking in city colour.

This coming weekend Mdina becomes Medieval, with pageantry, jousting tournaments, medieval football (If that is anything like Florence's Calcio Storico, that'll be a feast for the eyes), human chess games, medieval knights, men in Medieval costumes and, best of all, traditional medieval food and an abundance of wine and beer.

There will also be guided tours and relics of the past (no more Joan jibes please) as well as attractions like Punch and Judy, jesters, jugglers and donkey rides.

If you want a respite from the primitive throng outside, I beg you to take a peek at the amazingly beautiful Palazzo Falson. Chances are it might also be crowded but with a rather more enlightened assemblage, one would imagine. If not to look at the historical artifacts on show, perhaps you could have tea in the highest place of all, upstairs.

Take bus number 80, 81, 82, 84, 86 to Rabat Bus Terminus from Valletta Gate

The table is set at Palazzo Falson
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Figolla toil and trouble

2009-04-10T15:46:00.013+02:00

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I made the mistake of telling my sister about fellow blogger Gourmet Worrier's figolla project and I was lumbered with making the traditional Easter sweet with my nephews and niece! I thought I'd share the recipe with my blog readers so that you have no excuse but to toil for the whole of the Saturday before Easter.

Ingredients for the pastry:
350 grams caster sugar
800 grams plain flour
400 grams margarine
4 beaten egg yolks
Grated rind of 1 lemon (The lemons here are just so fragrant!)
Vanilla essence

Ingredients for the filling:
600 grams icing sugar
2 egg whites
Teaspoon of orange flower water
600 grams of ground almonds

Decoration:
Glacé icing
Any other sweets you can get hold of

The fun part is deciding what shape your pastry is going to have. You can find ready made shapes or you can just create a template by drawing a simple outline onto a piece of paper or cardboard and cut it to shape. I started off with some more ambitious designs that I thought would entertain the children - cute monster types - and ended up doing other smaller and simpler egg shapes.

Mix the sugar and the flour, then rub in the butter. Add the yolks and grated lemon rind and keep on kneading.

Two of the siblings were barred from this, one because of the suspiciously persistent dark remains under his nails and the other because we were not keen on finding any of her newly glued pretty nails ingrained in the sweet.

Place the dough in the fridge to chill for an hour.

In the meantime, place all the ingredients for the filling in a bowl and mix well and then knead.

Roll out the pastry and cut two of each shape. Lay the first shape onto a baking tin that has been lightly buttered and then spread the filling to cover the first shape, leaving a margin all around. Be rather generous with the filling, otherwise you will only taste the pastry. Lay the second shape on top and press the edges together (wet your finger with water so as to have a better seal).

Bake at 200'C/400'F/gas 6 for 10 to 20 minutes. Check that they appear slightly brown. Leave to cool on the tray.

Add water sparingly to the icing sugar until it's spreadable. Add food colour and spread onto the surface of the pastry. I have used a mixture of Liquorish Allsorts and Hundreds and Thousands, as well as other cake decorations to create my figolli characters. Our glamorous and camp G-Man came with full bling necklace and pink lips. I'll need to pass by Valletta G-House this morning to present him to our guests. We'll keep you posted as to whether they survive the experience.

FEEL FREE TO COMMENT
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Good (Friday) Olde Violence

2009-04-10T14:55:00.005+02:00

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Birgu Exhibit

I have got a few bones to pick.

Is it me or is the ritual side to Catholisism increasingly visible on this island? Back in the UK, a friend of mine once invited me to a High Church mass in London and I could not help thinking my friend was more interested in the ceremonial vestiture and the trimmings rather than the spiritual side of it. Could it be that the increase in the ceremonial is a deliberate attempt at blinding the people into submission, the same way that Baroque was used in churches in the past to dazzle the faithful poor into obedience? This is a great dilemma for me. I have been promoting this side of tradition through my blog as I find it a fascinating subject anthropologically. It is a well known fact that it is also a crowd puller, regardless of one's beliefs. But is it a harmless pursuit or does it have a slightly more sinister agenda?

I was not sure I wanted to go see any of the great number of the exhibits that litter the island on Good Friday. The blood and gore on show can be rather disconcerting to someone like myself who could not deal with watching the whole of Apocalypse Now. Mr man and I decided to visit the exhibit under the walls of Vittoriosa. The statues representing the Passion of Christ were rather realistic and looked great beneath the olive trees in the moat. There were a lot of children present and this triggered off a discussion between us. Violence in films is usually kept away from children via cinema ratings. Is the violence in the story of a man who lived 2000 years ago any different? Should children be shielded from violence and suffering in general?

Birgu Exhibit

Violence in public Good Friday Pageants

FEEL FREE TO COMMENT
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Malta Times - editing or censorship?

2009-04-07T16:12:00.006+02:00

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Since the Times of Malta online introduced the facility for instant comment, we're now able to get the word on the streets. At times, glancing through some of the comments gives me a sense of nausea. Grammar and spelling are bad enough but it is the hatred and prejudice of some of the comments that is most upsetting.

The comments under a recent news article on the Greens' proposals were from the usual holier than thou who would seem to have a vested interest in maintaining the status quo at all costs.

I decided to send my comment. Only half of it appeared so I complained. They then took it out altogether. As a matter of principle, I publish my comment in full here. You'll need to read the article and comments to follow:

Oh my gawd, all the Mary Whitehouses on the island have turned up to shout in their Pidgin English - The world's end is nigh. It is sadder still when you consider that AD's half baked proposal is actually an insult to all those whose monogamous relationships have been dumped in with old kinsfolk and mates who's only motive for co-habitation is purely practical. We're stuck with the best of a bad lot politically, I suppose. I don't see the other two amateur parties sticking out their necks for lurve either. If you lot of island pansies want anything to change, you need to think about choosing to be there next Pride (and I don't mean exclusively for the party after).

Too posh to sleep together

2009-04-07T07:52:00.003+02:00

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We have always provided one bed at Valletta G-House and we were convinced we were offering the ultimate luxurious bed to aspire to. You can imagine our disappointment at finding out through none other than sleep researcher at Norfolk and Norwich University Hospital - Neil Stanley - that posh people have never slept together. Only us mere middle class mortals, it seems, do so.

“Sharing a bed is just a cultural norm, with no science behind it,” Stanley says. “Posh people have never done it. It’s a mark of wealth to sleep separately — it should be aspirational.” In Britain, bed-sharing is a relatively recent development, entering the mainstream in the late 19th century. Sensible Victorians are said to have wailed about the intolerable cruelty of having to share a bed. As late as the 1970s, twin beds outsold doubles (remember George and Mildred?). It’s only in the past 30 years that adults have been expected to sleep in a bed that provides 9in less space per person, when divided between two, than a child’s single.

Stanley sums it up succinctly. “Sleep is the most selfish thing you can do, and you can’t share it.”

Read the rest of Neil Stanley's article on The Sunday Times

FEEL FREE TO COMMENT
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Square

2009-04-06T13:47:00.004+02:00

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I can safely say that last Friday's exhibition opening at 68 St Lucy Street was a hit. Square is a collective exhibition of works, the common theme of which is the 10 x 10 inches size of each work. I usually find that the absence of a brief results in chaos, but if that were the case this was one pleasant chaos. The Valletta town house that has been converted into a space for creativity a few months ago keeps on providing us with outstanding stimulation for the brain and for the heart. Square will be open until 19 April. 68 is an 8 minute walk from Valletta G-House.
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Foeniculum vulgare

2009-04-06T13:01:00.008+02:00

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I do love fennel in my salad and I use it in a lot of my cooking back in the UK. While in the UK it is cultivated for use as a culinary herb, a walk in the Maltese countryside at this time of the year will take you across many a wild plant of the species. It's thick foliage reminds me of some of the trendy afro hairdos in fashion spreads and I always succumb to the temptation of running my fingers through the plant and breathing in its aroma. That, in turn, reminds me of liquorice and the colourful sweets known as Liquorice Allsorts. Although the smell is similar to that of liquorice, the latter is made from the roots of Genus Glycyrrhiza or, more precisely, from the cultivated G. glabra.

In Malta, the fennel plant is known as Buzbiez (lovely word, don't you think?). Recipes using Buzbiez are many and varied but in Maltese dishes, it is its seeds that are most commonly used, usually with roast potatoes.
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Suggestions for an evening with fireworks

2009-04-04T09:47:00.005+02:00

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On the eve of 30 April, after an appetizing meal at Rubino's, head to the other side of Valletta. In front of the Knights old Hospital (The Mediterranean Conference Centre) you will find a flight of steps leading down to the Grand Harbour. Sit there, amongst the fishermen's huts and at 21:30 hrs you're in for a pleasant surprise.

The 8th edition of the Malta International Fireworks Festival will start off with a 15 minute fireworks display, designed by one company, followed by various other local factories, all vying for a trophy. Unfortunately I can't promise you'll be alone watching the display but it certainly makes for a romantic evening for you and your significant other.

The festival also commemorates the 5th anniversary to Malta's accession into the European Union.

FLASH NEWS | 29 April 2009:
Fireworks festival postponed
The Malta International Fireworks Festival has had to be postponed due to a mechanical fault in the ship carrying some of the fireworks. The organiser of the festival, the Malta Tourism Authority, said it is doing its utmost to hold the festival on Friday and Saturday.
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New York Times on Malta

2009-04-02T17:57:00.004+02:00

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Came across this on the web. Thought I'd share it: The Frugal Traveller in Malta - New York Times. Enjoy
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Holy week

2009-04-02T15:52:00.005+02:00

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the street down from Victory Square in Vittoriosa

This morning I ventured over to Vittoriosa and thought I'd wander down to Victory square for a coffee. It being close to Good Friday, the band club in the square has already started putting up the decorations related to the holy week. I walked down some steps and the paved road that leads from the square towards the water front and noticed some tourists walking out of a relatively modest looking church.

The church turned out to be the Collegiate Church of St Lawrence, one of the most historically venerated churches in Malta. The original building was built on its site in 1090 and the Knights adopted it as their first conventual church in 1530 after enlarging it. It contained many treasures the Knights brought over from Rhodes when, two years later, it was badly damaged in a fire. The present church is that which was built by Lorenzo Gafa' in the 17th century.

The pulpit

Inside I met a wonderful 72 year old volunteer who told me of the town's well known expertise in wood furniture and intarsjar (inlaid wood). He proudly showed me the amazing pulpit in the church as a prime example of such work.

A Mattia Preti

He insisted I have a closer look at the Mattia Preti painting above the altar. It depicts the martyrdom of St Lawrence. Lawrence is said to have been martyred on a gridiron. An interesting anecdote is that during his torture Lawrence cried out "Assum est, inquit, versa et manduca." (This side’s done, turn me over and have a bite). Christians' dark sense of humour never escapes them, it seems!

Spanish statue of Veronica (17th Century)

But what really intrigued me were the wooden sculptures, some imported from Spain and some sculpted by Maltese artists. They represent the different stages of Jesus' Passion. Some are rather gruesome and in normal circumstances (outside of a church) would require parental guidance.

The dead Jesus

The statue of the dead Christ is housed in an old hearse originally used for the funerals of prominent people during the time of the Order of St John. In 1793 a local by the name of Frangisku Demajo sponsored its redecoration with silver a martello.

Ganutell on top of the hearse decorated with hammered silver

Vittoriosa is one of the places one must visit during holy week. Buses number 01 and 04 from Valletta Gate take approximately 20 minutes to arrive in Birgu/Vittoriosa. Otherwise take a water taxi from Customs House.
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I'll walk all over you

2009-03-28T15:42:00.007+01:00

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Temperature today reaches 20º and clocks turn forward an hour at 02:00 tonight. I want to enjoy the sunshine and be one with nature. This morning I walked all the way to Birgu (from Tarxien), and although I went through built up areas, nature still finds a way to peek through cracks in the concrete pavements and between rubble wall stones. The weed above is referred to in Malta as Haxixa Ingliza (English weed) and it is rather common, making dull corners all gay with its summery flower.

I have been thinking of joining some friends on a guided nature walk in Majjistral Nature and History Park. Held on Sundays by pre-booking one week in advance, the walk takes about 2.5hrs long (6km). Their online description promises you'll come across great views, endemic Rdum landscape, Garrigue (low, soft leafed scrubland typical of the Mediterranean basin) and Maltese corbelled stone huts. Will I tempt you? Feel like joining in the fun?

Bus number 47 leaves Valletta for Golden Bay (meeting point)

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Lift you up

2009-03-27T21:45:00.003+01:00

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Postcard showing the old Valletta lift

Gosh, two opportunities to show off these old postcards I bought at the car boot sale. Well, great news that of the plans to rebuild the old lift. Valletta being the hilly place it is, it would be convenient to be able to get from Lascaris Wharf (near Customs House) up to Upper Barrakka again. It's all part of a plan to make getting to and from Valletta easier as water taxis and ferries will be the order of the day soon enough.

The old lift was built in 1905 and functioned until 1970. It was taken apart in 1983. It was made out of steel and carried two passenger cars of twelve passengers each. The cost in 1905 was £5K. The largest customer base was the British Navy and Merchant Marine and those who crossed the harbour using the ferries.

The new lift's contemporary look has already grated with the usual moaners that leave their comments on the Times Online. It will be made out of concrete and a metal framework, have three panoramic cabins and will be able to carry 1,000 people an hour.

I, for one, simply can't wait.
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Water taxi rates

2009-03-26T10:11:00.007+01:00

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Customs House on an old postcard

Many of our guests use water taxis to ferry them across the Grand Harbour to the three cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua). The pick up points - Custom House and the Fisheries - are only a mere 5 to 10 minute walk from Valletta G-House and the journey is short and pleasant. The fortifications look even better down at sea too. The Malta Times today reports on a new law regulating the rates charged for use of the water taxi service.

Soon you should be able to catch a water taxi from, say, Sliema to Valletta and it should not cost you more than €5 for two.
The maximum fares the taxis will be able to charge are laid down in a new law expected to be announced today. The law forms part of the promised public transport reform, launched in July.

The island has been divided in six zones and trips from one zone to a neighbouring one will cost €15 for two passengers and €7.50 for each additional passenger.

The fare is €5 for a trip in the same port, for up to two passengers, with an extra €2.50 for each additional passenger. Trips to other zones will cost €40 for up to two passengers and €10 for each additional passenger. Tours around the island will cost a maximum €40 per hour for two passengers and an extra €10 per passenger or hour.

The law, backdated to March 1, speaks of licensed boats to ferry passengers from one point to another. Operators and the crew need a licence issued by the Malta Maritime Authority.

Masters are prohibited from calling or pestering anyone to use the water taxi or employ any person to do so. They have to wear a white shirt, a white Bermuda or long trousers, white socks and closed shoes. They must also issue a receipt after the trip and every receipt must include the date, the amount paid, the origin and the destination of the trip.

The Transport Ministry is today expected to officially announce the legislation for water taxis and ferries and plans for the vertical lift connecting Valletta Waterfront with the Upper Barrakka.

Water taxi services:
maltesewatertaxis.com t. 2180 6921 | m. 9924 7447
Traditional Maltese Dghajsa Tours: m. 7988 5969

Valletta G-House speaks Portuguese

2009-03-25T23:10:00.006+01:00

Valletta G-House features on Portuguese travel magazine Rotas e Destinos this April. The G-House repute is spreading fast and here is a market that we might have completely missed had journalist Teresa Federico and photographer Manuel Gomes da Costa not come to visit.

No que toca a alojamento, a oferta hoteleira abunda em Malta. No entanto, alugar uma casa num bairro popular da capital proporciona certamente uma experiência especial. Primeiro projecto do género de Aldo Gatt, director de arte na área da publicidade a residir em Londres, a G-House é um boutique place num edifício do século XVI. Cruza o seu hobby de recuperar casas e o trabalho, através, por exemplo, do grande quadro que ornamenta o quarto, baseado num clássico de Eugène Delacroix mas resultante de uma foto do inglês Tim Flach, feita para uma campanha da luta contra o cancro. Está já alugada até Agosto, provavelmente com a ajuda da divulgação em revistas internacionais.

This is my extremely hopeless translation of what Teresa wrote in the article:

Hotel accommodation is easy to find in Malta. However, renting a house in a popular quarter of the capital certainly makes for a more special experience. The G-House is the first project of the kind for Aldo Gatt, an Art Director living in London. The boutique accommodation is in a XVI century town house. He gets great results with mixing his day job skills with his love for restoring old houses. Embellishing the main room, for example, is what looks like a classic painting of Eugène Delacroix but, a closer look will reveal it to be a Tim Flach photoshoot Aldo art directed, part of a cancer treatment advertising campaign. The house is booked well into August.

St John's shock and awe

2009-03-25T22:44:00.004+01:00

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If you have not yet had the opportunity to see for yourself the result of the €530,000 restoration work carried out on St John's Co-Cathedral, make it a point to go. The work has been carried out by Santo Guido Restauri. This week I came across Patricia Daniel's blog and her fascinating insight into the art within the Co-Cathedral.

The opulent Baroque style in church architecture was encouraged by the Catholic Church at the time of Council of Trent as a way of expressing religious themes with emotion, but the busy decoration was also a way of loosing all sense of shape and space and leaving the faithful dumbfounded, standing in awe at God's greatness.

Patricia writes about the dark side of St John's:

The cathedral is simple on the outside with an opulent interior. Fantastic baroque stone carving on every wall and pillar, in the nave it’s still all covered with gilt. So in one way, the building is filled with light. But there’s a feeling of darkness here and violent death – not the serenity of a soul gone to meet their maker. One of many examples is a magnificent 3-D memorial to a fallen knight, executed in shiny black metal, decorated with shields and swords. You don’t get a sense of redemption, only a sense of anger. ‘It’s as if they’re still fighting,’ says my daughter.

Is that what the family (or the Order) requested from the artist? The entire interior, including many of the altar-pieces, was commissioned from the Calabrian Matthia Preti. Did he actually subvert the task to convey his own perception of the knights? The bucolic biblical scenes painted in pastels on the ceiling are marred at the bottom by giant figures of knights in black robes who cleverly but frighteningly emerge in 3-D from the fresco. They do not form part of the biblical story at all - they crouch ready to leap out.

The whole is designed to shock and awe the congregation.

Valletta needs you

2009-03-25T15:54:00.006+01:00

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As you get lost in the streets and alleys of this World Heritage City, you can't help but notice that quite a few of the properties, some palatial in both size and style, seem to be empty and in need of some TLC. Have you always dreamt of embarking on a Grand Designs type of project? According to BuyAssociation.com, this is the perfect time to invest in a property in Malta.

It takes flair and courage, and most of all, it takes patience. Mediterranean style red tape and a laid back attitude towards work are two things you will need to learn to deal with. Sometimes you will also face a little bit of corruption at all levels and, at that point you will need to make decisions as to what's best to do - it is sometimes not as straight cut as one thinks.

An architect specialised in old properties, who knows his/her stuff can save you a lot of hassle. I have been in "restored" houses where such a lot of irretrievable damage has been done to the structure and integrity of the building that you feel like screaming out "idiots". A builder or even a mason who does not consult the architect because he thinks he knows it all is trouble waiting to happen. Don't even touch him with a barge pole.

I have a feeling that Global Property Guide's claim that Malta is "in the group of countries that has suffered from the most severe drops in property prices" is slightly exaggerated. In appearance I have not really noticed the decrease in prices GPG mentions.

...for people who are keen to own a home on one of the most popular islands for UK holidaymakers the recession could provide the opportunity to get a great bargain. Global Property Guide, along with almost every other industry watcher, doesn’t predict any significant upturn in the property market in 2009.

For those whose capital is not in EURO, they might have a problem:

Maltese property buyers are having to deal with the fact that the Euro has gained so significantly in strength against Sterling in the past six months, so the drop in prices is likely to offset this to some extent. In addition, the possibility of a rally in the value of the Pound against other currencies later in the year should mean that property in the Eurozone becomes cheaper for UK buyers, and may help the beginnings of a recovery for property prices.

Valletta on Malta advert

2009-03-22T22:40:00.003+01:00

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Valletta features heavily in one of the ads for Malta showing on National Geographic.

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Half price entry to museums next Saturday

2009-03-22T22:14:00.005+01:00

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A visit to the National Museum of Archaeology in Republic Street, the National Museum of Fine Arts in South Street and the Palace Armoury will only cost half price on Saturday 28 March on the occasion of Valletta day. Tickets from Heritage Malta.
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In-flight consolation

2009-03-21T17:51:00.004+01:00

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Our guests come from as far as Australia and we try to ease them quickly into their vacation the minute they exit Departure Gate at Malta International Airport. The fact stays that we have no control over the quality of their journey from the country of origin. Austin Hill, editor of travel blog Travellious.com has kindly come to the rescue with a list of things that make his travel more relaxing:

Soundproof Earbuds
I initially starting using these to keep out the airplane noise and to keep me entertained. My skullcandy earbuds work great for these purposes, but I realized over the last couple of flights I've taken that when I leave them in the entire flight, my ears never needed to "pop" when I landed. I'm not sure exactly how this works, but it's left me a happier, more comfortable flier.

Eye-mask
I may be one of the few guys on the plane with an eye-mask, but I wear mine proudly. It's the only way to sleep on a red-eye flight full of freaks who don't need to sleep.

Saline Nose Spray
My big nose (see photo above, yes, that's me) gets dry on flights. It's annoying, so I make sure to not leave this out of my carry on. It keeps me sane and from getting sick once I land.

A hand to hold
Despite the fact that I'm a fairly seasoned flier, there are sometimes when I need a friendly hand to calm me during turbulence or rough landings. Luckily, I usually have Kelly beside me to lovingly calm my nerves, but the times when she's not there make me grateful for when she is.

Speaking of hands, on a recent flight to Austin, we had a rather inebriated first time flier who was nervously chatting with her row-mate. Eventually, she got so worked up that she flat out asked him if she could hold his hand to calm her down. Luckily, he was quite the gracious and understanding guy, and agreed. That simple act was enough to transform her from a nervous wreck to a quiet sleeper. I think everyone on that flight owes that gentleman, and his helpful hand, a giant heaping serving of gratitude.

My notebook
For some odd reason, my mind seems to kick into high gear on an airplane, and I need to place to dump my ideas. If it weren't for my notebook, I'd be a scatterbrained mess, plus I'd lose all those great ideas. Is it just me, or do other people ever have this happen to them, especially when you're trying to sleep?

Air traffic control
I have an unnatural obsession with listening to air traffic control. I love hearing pilots chatting with each other and with the guys on the ground. Alongside the mundane altitude changes, course modifications, and weather updates, you can catch funny jokes, regional accents, and be prepared for any bad weather before the plane starts bumping around. Plus, there's part of me that likes to know that there's a world outside the metal tube I'm in. Thanks, United, for channel 9.

If anyone wants to contribute their list of hand luggage contents, go to Travellious.com and don't forget to list them here too.
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Fra Cretien, the custodian knight.

2009-03-21T15:24:00.003+01:00

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In 1998 the upper part of Fort St Angelo, on the other side of the Grand Harbour from Valletta, was handed over by the Maltese government to the Order of St John for a period of 99 years in an effort to find the finances to restore the fort. Unfortunately the money needed has so far eluded the present incumbents and Fort St Angelo is still crying out for some tender loving care.

The Australian's Angela Shanahan writes of Fra John Cretien's plans for Fort St Angelo:

"Grinding out yet another cigarette on the ancient battlements, he casually remarks he is considering a plan to convert part of it into retirement units for old knights or perhaps a spa for the Euro-rich who moor their yachts in the walled seclusion of Valletta harbour.

"Anyway, whatever we do with St Angelo, it must be in keeping with the charitable spirit of the order, which has morphed into a huge international aid organisation, and hopefully make a bit of money for our present-day work," he says.

Some of the Australian lay knights who have accompanied me on the climb to the bastion look faintly appalled. The knights built Valletta in 1530 after their expulsion from Rhodes and it was from the battlements of St Angelo that they famously repelled the Turkish invasion fleet. In fact, originally they were reluctant to administer Malta, describing it as a barren rocky place, with a bad water supply and people who spoke a form of Arabic."

Read the rest of the article on The Australian News
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An evening with two

2009-03-21T14:13:00.008+01:00

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My sister invited me to go watch a Unifaun Theatre play yesterday at the St James Cavalier Centre. Unifaun have featured in the news lately for challenging the absurd censorship of a Nielson play by the local Censorship Board. I have been wanting to go watch Frost/Nixon at the cinema, based on the interview that Frost made with Nixon on the Watergate scandal but have not had the time so far. Like the film, the play I went to watch - The Devil's Advocate - by Donald Freed also deals with the conversation between two people.

The military dictator Manuel Noriega seeks refuge at the Apostolic Nuncio. He and the Vatican's Archbishop Jose Sebastian Laboa partake in a game of accusations that gives us an insight into the relations between the US of A and Latin America. The tension in the play is throughout, with hardly any respite. I don't know if, in effect, it is a failing of the script or in the way it was directed, but there were times I wanted out. Actors Manuel Cauchi and Paul Portelli gave a most powerful performance. My favourite scene where the archbishop prays for Noriega while Noriega danced in a trance titillated me, but I still felt it could have been even stronger had the lights been more dramatic.

Devil's Advocate is on at St James on today, 21, 21, 27, 28, 29 March. Tickets from St James Cav.

Just before the play, we managed to catch a glimpse of Robert Zahra's exhibition of drawings, paintings and photos of city spaces. A strong line, stripped to its raw form, frequently dark and just as compelling. "Mkejjen" is on at St James until 03 May.
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Brilliant brilli

2009-03-19T23:04:00.003+01:00

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Arthur Taylor writes about an old game that is still played on the island of Gozo (Malta's sister island) on The Telegraph:

"We heard the game long before we saw it – a distant clatter of wood on wood, shouts and laughter. Brilli's home ground is the hamlet of Santo Pietro, a fair stride downhill and up again from the village of Gharb. It was a Sunday morning and very hot. We followed the noise, keeping to the shady side of the street.

Seven men, elderly, but a tough-looking bunch with tattoos, were grouped around the crossroads, some playing, some resting in the shade of the bus shelter and watching. It looked like nine-pin skittles, but not as we know it."

Read the rest of Arthur's article on The Telegraph
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Feast of St Joseph

2009-03-19T22:13:00.003+01:00

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Returned to Rabat this evening to join my friend Antonio on the occasion of the feast of St Joseph. We watched the statue of the saint be carried out of the church to the sound of shouts from an enthusiastic bunch and the deafening fireworks. We then fought our way through the crowd and into the church where Grandmaster Isle Adam insisted his heart be buried. It is indeed a beautiful church, even more splendid on this occasion when all the best bits are shown off to the faithful (and to infidels such as I).

St Catherine's restoration - music to my ears

2009-03-18T14:45:00.005+01:00

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Just meters from the ruins of the Royal Opera House lies a church, the facade of which was splendidly restored 6 years ago. For some time, St Catherine's has been the venue for a serious of lunchtime concerts. The concerts have been an excellent way of attracting sponsorship for the restoration of the church as well as to also directly contribute through ticket sales towards the same end. It has now been reported that the main cupola of the church is also to be restored. Great damage has already been done to the mural paintings, partly due to the "powdering" of the stone that makes up the dome.

If you want to listen to some great music as well as feel good knowing you are personally contributing to the restoration of this fine baroque building, have a look at the programme below and book tickets now.

Thursday 19th March @ 12.30pm
Baroque works for flute and Harpsichord
Programme:
Handel - Suite no 2 (from Water Music)
Marcello - Concerto no 3 in D minor (arr JS Bach)
Platti - Sonata in D
Vivaldi - Largo (from Concerto in F –Winter)
J S Bach - Aria (from Suite no 3 in D major)
Performers:
Silvio Zammit - flute | Ramona Zammit Formosa - harpsichord

Sunday 22nd March @ 11.00am
Meet the Composer – Franz Schubert
Programme:
String Trio in Bb
Piano Quintet in A major "Trout Quintet"

Thursday 26th March @ 12.30pm
Terpsichore – Muse of Dance
Dances violin & piano
Works by Albeniz, Bartok, Camilleri
Performers:
Sarah Spiteri – violin | Alex Vella Gregory - piano

Sunday 29th March @ 11.00am
3B's ....... Bach Bass is Beautiful!
J S Bach
Cantata no 82 Ich Habe Genung
Ricitativ & Aria from St. Matthew’s Passion - Mache Dich
Performers:
Albert Buttigieg – bass | St. James Consort
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Rabat village feast

2009-03-16T14:34:00.003+01:00

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Yesterday afternoon I was invited to a friend's house in Mdina. I have always wondered what it is like to live in a city with Mdina's history. Before the sun set, we decided to take a little walk around the adjacent village of Rabat. The word 'Rabat' stands for 'suburb' in Arabic. The village is preparing for its village feast, with festoons, lights and architectural wooden structures painted to look like marble and gold. I insisted on walking down the little alley that leads to St. Agatha's catacombs and my old school right next to them. I reminisced about the times my school friends and I were at liberty to run through the underground labyrinth and about the old man who took the tourists down to the catacombs. With his broken english he would explain how "St Agatha walked on these very steps". We'd giggle in the background and say "concrete" out loud as we pointed to the steps.

My friend took me to a building close to the bus station, with vaulted corridors set around a large courtyard full of orange and lemon trees. He explained to me the difference between monastery, convent and priory.

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Good Friday and Easter in Malta

2009-03-15T08:11:00.003+01:00

Malta comes alive during Holy Week when the islands play host to religious parades, concerts and public devotions in a demonstration of their uniquely colourful faith - and with airlines opening a number of new routes to Malta there has never been a better time to experience the festivities.

Beginning on Sunday 5th April, Palm Sunday, the Maltese make a public display of faith without parallel in Europe during which the Passion is re-enacted; passing through the sorrow of Maundy Thursday and Good Friday to a joyous finale on Easter Sunday. The celebrations are at once a family occasion and a festival for all in the spring sun.

Read the rest of the article on Easier.com
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Taxi fraud

2009-03-11T10:30:00.007+01:00

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Recently, while making my way to Valletta to pick up our guests, the rear tire developed a puncture. I reluctantly instructed the guests to phone for a taxi. It later came to my knowledge that they were charged €25 for this short journey (a 15 minute 8 km journey). A London cab (where salaries are three times as much) would only set you back a maximum of £18 (€19.50 by today's rate) for the same length of daytime journey. A couple of days later I was stranded in Valletta (before 10:00 pm may I add) with no bus to take me to Paola and a howling wind that threatened to knock me off my feet, so I (again reluctantly) hailed a cab. I asked the unshaven taxi driver how much for the ride and he said €18. I replied I only had €10 and he immediately signaled for me to get in. I immediately realised I had probably offered too much but I felt I had no choice if I did not want to remain in the lurch.

First, does it not occur to taxi drivers that the reason why most Maltese do not make use of their service is that they have a reputation for overcharging?

Secondly, does not the Maltese Government have the guts to impose meters in taxis, and harsh penalties for those that are caught cheating? As a visitor, one can remain rather disgruntled with being cheated?

Thirdly, I discourage any use of taxis in Malta unless you know the average rate you are expected to pay so as not to be hoodwinked. According to the Public Transport Directorate, the journey from the airport to Valletta should cost you €23.29. Frankly I find that rather expensive even by London standards, let alone Maltese.
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Malta 1970 vs Malta 2009

2009-03-05T16:48:00.009+01:00

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Not many people are aware of the length of time that the British author of dystopian satire A Clockwork Orange - Anthony Burgess, along with his wife Liana, resided in the village of Lija in Malta (1968-1970), partly to avoid the 90% tax his family would have had to pay in Britain. Some of his literary contributions were not actually available to the Maltese public in those days. The censors on the island, pressured by the church in Malta, saw to it that the Maltese were protected from such "occasions of sin".

The Malta Independent have re-published an interview with Burgess that originally appeared in the Times of Malta in 1970, just before the author left Malta because of the censorship he encountered on the island. It is particularly poignant in view of the recent censorship of Anthony Neilson's Stitching in Malta.

You have ‘harshly criticised’ Malta on several occasions. Seeing that we have been under colonial rule for so long, don’t you partly blame your own countrymen for a great many things which have been left undone, say, in the educational and cultural fields? Don’t you think you are expecting far too much from such a small island?

Last question first. I don’t think size has much to do with cultural achievement. Look at what ancient Athens did, as well as Elizabethan London. Blame colonialism by all means, but remember that the British, unlike Napoleon, scrupulously refused to interfere with Maltese traditions and never tried to diminish the power of the Church. Malta has had its own destiny in its hands for many centuries. But by Malta I mean the ruling oligarchy, not the people. The people have always had a rough deal and they are still having it. Otherwise why so much emigration? They have never been encouraged to think for themselves. Their very language has been relegated to a minor place, while the oligarchs talked about art and politics in Italian or English. Who is to blame that Maltese has had an orthography for only a little over a century?

Surely Malta’s paternalism has been a good thing, no drug addiction here, no sexual perversion, not much violence.

We can eradicate any public evil we wish most efficiently if we employ dictatorial methods. The secret of government, as of private morality, is to balance individual freedom of choice with what is considered to be a necessary apparatus of repression. Lead us not into temptation. But it’s only to God that we pray so, it’s not up to the State to keep away the occasions of sin. There should not be any protection at all: it’s up to us as individuals to engage temptation and try to conquer. That’s what free will is about. Malta would try to do away with the concept of the Church Militant altogether and see this theocratic community as a trailer of the Church Triumphant. No fight against sin, no athletic struggle of the soul. Just the flabbiness of virtue achieved through sheer repression. If you can call such virtue virtue.

The Maltese cannot yet discriminate and judge for themselves and the majority are not prepared to cope with a flood of permissive literature, films and so on. What solution do you suggest for giving more intellectual freedom to a people traditionally not encouraged to think for themselves?

Are the Maltese different from any other people in the world? Are they not human beings? Give them what London or Rome already has, progressive cinema, the right to read books written and published in an honest spirit of enquiry as to the nature of man and society. Is Malta in greater need of protection than Rome? Or are Malta’s faith and morality so shaky that they cannot resist the onslaught of new ideas and images of life? Christ came to bring not peace but a sword, meaning, I should have thought, the dialectic of human living through which the faith should be brightened and sharpened. As for a greater permissiveness in the provision of art and literature people don’t have to go to the library or the cinema if they don’t wish. Nothing is being forced on anyone.

Read the interview in full on The Malta Independent on Sunday
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Malta by Mail

2009-03-03T21:33:00.004+01:00

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The Mail's John Craven still thinks Malta is good value for money despite the weak pound against the euro.

Prices in restaurants and cafes are much the same as in the UK and quality is good. A traditional Maltese meal of a fish broth called aljotta and rabbit cooked in red wine and herbs cost me €18 in the rooftop restaurant of the Castille Hotel in Valletta, looking down on the twinkling lights of the harbour.

But the concentration of history and culture is what impressed Craven most.

In Valletta's cathedral is the island's greatest treasure, Caravaggio's vast masterpiece The Beheading Of St John, the only work he ever signed. It was painted in situ in 1607, shortly before the troublesome artist got into a fight, was flung into the dungeons and then escaped the island.

Further along Valletta's cobbled main street you can glimpse how top Knights used to live.

Casa Rocca Piccola, a 16th Century palace, is the home of the Marquis de Pira and his English wife Frances, who showed me round its many elegant rooms, rich with paintings, exquisite furniture and silver.

Read John Craven's article here
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Children's theatre in Valletta

2009-03-02T20:24:00.004+01:00

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Teatru Qroqq will be producing two well loved children's plays in April and May. I shall be writing about them nearer to the time but, for those who want to make sure they book their tickets in time, I thought I'd tell you booking is now open.

A poem from Africa

2009-03-02T20:10:00.003+01:00

When I born, I Black
When I grow up, I Black
When I go in sun, I Black
When I scared, I Black
When I cold, I Black
When I sick, I Black
When I ill, I Black
When I die, I still Black
And you white fella
When you born, you pink
When you grow, you white
When you go in sun, you red
When you scared, you yellow
When you cold, you blue
When you sick, you green
And when you die, you grey
And you calling ME Coloured?

I love this poem by British poet Levi Tafari. On Tuesday 10 March he will be reading his own poetry at the St James Cavalier (within walking distance from Valletta G-House). His poetry has the ability to make you smile. Trafari has written for stage and has been involved in TV as well as music projects. Entrance is free.
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Happy Anniversary

2009-03-02T08:52:00.006+01:00

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One piece of information I always share with our guests as I drive them from the airport, soon after I point out the three cities sitting pretty on the other side of the Grand Harbour, regards the Mediterranean Conference Centre. I speak of the healthcare background of the Order of St John and how they had already discovered the attributes of silver. The Knights insisted on silver cutlery being used at the Holy Infirmary for all patients, regardless of social status. These days silver is used extensively in healthcare for its healing qualities.

30 years ago this same building was transformed into a conference centre. The Malta Independent on Sunday featured this yesterday.

The Sacra Infermeria was considered to be one of the best hospitals in Europe and could accommodate 914 patients in an emergency.

Work on this vast edifice started in late 1574 during the reign of Grand Master Jean de la Cassiere (1572-1582) and was extended several times over the years. The “Old Ward”, which is the main attraction, was extended into the “Great Ward” during the years 1660 to 1666 under the rule of the Cotoners. This hall, 155 metres in length, was at the time one of the largest in Europe and described as “one of the grandest interiors in the world”.

In 1676, Grand Master Nicholas Cotoner (1663-1680) founded the School of Anatomy and Surgery at the Infirmary. This school was to be the forerunner of the Medical School of the University of Malta. Surgeon (Later Sir) David Bruce discovered the undulant fever germ (Brucellosis) in 1887, when the hospital was used by the British Military Forces as the Garrison Hospital (1800-1920). During World War II the building suffered serious damage and approximately one third of the complex was destroyed.

When the Order of St John left the Maltese Islands, the French took over the Infirmary in June 1798, just after the occupation of the island by General Napoleon Bonaparte. The Infirmary now became known as Grand Hôpital or Hôpital Militaire. The French carried out various structural alterations to improve the ventilation, sanitation, and lighting of the hospital.

The uprising of the Maltese against the French occupiers on 2 September 1798 meant the decline of the hospital as drugs, fresh meat, and fruit were no longer available at the hospital.

The situation in the hospital and indeed the whole island was so bad that General Calude H. B. Vanois, the commander in chief of the French forces surrendered the island on 5 September 1800 to the British forces.

From 1800 till 1918, the Centre served as a Station Hospital. Situated very near to Grand Harbour, the hospital was within easy reach of the sick and wounded servicemen as hospital ships brought them in. For this reason the Station Hospital was mainly used as a sorting base and also as a centre for dangerously ill patients who could not be moved.

The end of World War I saw the end of the Station Hospital. The Infirmary’s Hall was turned into Police Headquarters from 1918 till 1940. In the ensuring bombardments of Valletta during World War II, the Mediterranean Conference Centre received four direct hits.

Part of what remained standing of the Long Ward was the Entertainment Centre for the allied troops and became known as the Command Hall, from 1945 till 1950. The 1950s brought with them a phase of soul-searching and trying to establish what the purpose and role of this location should be. Between 1950-1951 it was turned into a Children’s Theatre, and from 1959 the Centre served as a school and Examination Hall. Several attempts at restoration and reconstruction of the derelict building were made in 1959 and 1975, with a final effort in 1978 when the building was transformed into the present Mediterranean Conference Centre. The Centre was inaugurated on 11 February 1979, and was awarded the coveted Europa Nostra Diploma of Merit for the “superb restoration of the Sacra Infermeria and its adaptation for use as a conference centre”.

Read the rest of the article on The Malta Independent on Sunday
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Valletta G-House on food-lover's blog

2009-02-27T19:07:00.005+01:00

"I am not a chef or a professional cook. My qualification is that I love to eat and I firmly believe that one can't ever cook well unless you love food and in turn eating."

Nanette writes a blog about food and lives in Australia but her parents are Maltese so mouthwatering Maltese dishes frequently find their way amongst her beautifully illustrated recipes. This usually makes me get homesick for my mother's own cooking.

"I guess I have always been passionate about food and I think this has something to do with my heritage and upbringing. My parents are Maltese and immigrated to Australia in the 1960's. They are both of the generation and belief that 'Food is Love' so the greater amount of food, the greater the love."

Her latest blog is about our boutique accommodation in Valletta. Nanette writes:

"The Valletta G-House is an elegant private town house nestled within the walls of Valletta and is a 10-minute walk from capital's waterfront. This 16th century home has been painstakingly restored with great attention to detail and comes fully equipped with all the latest modern conveniences, whilst still managing to retain its original character."

We shall certainly keep an eye on Nanette's blog. Her combination of cooking and design is one that mixes well. When I'm back in the UK, in a few months' time, I shall try cooking some of the dishes on Gourmet Worrier, but until then I shall have to sit back and enjoy my mama's own cooking.
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More tunnels in Valletta

2009-02-27T11:30:00.004+01:00

Preliminary archaeological studies in St George's Square, Valletta have uncovered an undocumented network of underground passageways, which could possibly connect to the Palace.

Studies are being undertaken in St George's Square in preparation for the building of a one-storey underground car park and the subsequent embellishment of the square.

The project, piloted by the Works Division and the Valletta Rehabilitation Project, still needs to be given the green light by the Malta Environment and Planning Authority.

The passageways were discovered on Tuesday when government employees from the Works Division under architect Claude Borg dug through a wall in a small room on Archbishop Street. After clearing debris and other material, they discovered that the passageway leads to under the Main Guard portico, parallel to the Palace.

Read the rest of the article on the Times of Malta

Burlesque on again this Sunday

2009-02-26T13:27:00.005+01:00

1 a parody or comically exaggerated imitation of something, esp. in a literary or dramatic work : the funniest burlesque of opera | [as adj. ] burlesque Shakespearean stanzas. See note at caricature .
• humor that depends on comic imitation and exaggeration; absurdity : the argument descends into burlesque.
2 a variety show, typically including striptease : [as adj. ] burlesque clubs.

I'm relatively new to Burlesque but I enjoyed last night's show at the old wine cellar of Chiaroscuro in Strait Street. Must make it a date (have already become a member of their page on Facebook). Had a pleasant glass of wine while the show to started, a bit slow at first but it quickly gained pace. Some great sketches and musical numbers amongst the material. Loved the three dancing girls that teased us into the night.

I had already been to the Chiaroscuro cellar for the launch of Pierre J. Meilak's book Qed Nistenniek Niezla max-Xita and the one thing that had bothered me then were the mosquitoes present in the cellar. They were still there for the show yesterday so I suggest spraying yourself with insect repellent if you intend going to this Sunday's show. Booking is necessary.

Sunday 1 March 2009
Place: Chiarscuro, Strait Street Valletta
Time: 21.00 - 22.30
Bookings

Carnival frivolity

2009-02-24T09:20:00.007+01:00

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Doesn't carnival give you the same weird feeling that clowns do? It's tragic and comic at the same time. Must say, it did not help that I went to Valletta on my own and was trying a bit too hard to enjoy myself. Must say it was still a fascinating experience from an anthropological viewpoint. I'm sure I would have acted differently had I also had a mask.

Well, Carnivals can turn out to be rather exciting too. I had a Lovely Pinocchio nuzzle his nose under my left ear! (Don't ask. Anything is allowed in Carnival apparently)

I ended the evening with a simple pasta meal at Crianza in Archbishop Street, Valletta...on my own, to enjoy reading the local Sunday papers in peace.
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Weekly Film Club

2009-02-21T18:18:00.006+01:00

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Kinemastic are holding a film club every Tuesday at No 68, (68 St Lucy Street, Valletta, 10 minutes' walk from Valletta G-House). The series started with Benjamin Christensen's film/documentary Haxan - Witchcraft Through The Ages (1968) last Tuesday 17 February.

Kinemastik also hold the annual Short Film Festival in the start of Summer and the twice a month afternoon showings at the Malta Contemporary Art in Marsa. See Kinemastik's blog for more information.
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Play censored

2009-02-21T17:39:00.007+01:00

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Anthony Neilson's theatre production "Stitching" was planned to be shown at the St James Cavalier (within walking distance from Valletta G-House) but the Maltese government (its board of film and stage classification) has decided to censor it, causing a stir in the Maltese theatre going public. Censorship in theatre has always been a bone of contention with Malta. Ads in imported women's magazines in the 70's were frequently censored with black felt-pen and a famous local playwright's production "Sulari fuq Strada Stretta" also in the seventies was not allowed to be shown at the Manoel Theatre.

Andrew Haydon writes in the Guardian's Theatre Blog:

What the Maltese government has issued amounts to a didactic list setting out what characters can and can't say in a work of art. It is unacceptable that the police force of a European democracy in the 21st century has the power to issue notices ordering that a play is not performed.

Read the rest of the article here.

The producers of the play have vowed to stage the play anyway. For more information click here.
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Porn in Valletta

2009-02-21T11:27:00.003+01:00

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A musical by the name of Porn will be showing at the MITP in St Christopher Street, Valletta (within walking distance from Valletta G-House) from 6 to 8 March and 13 to 15 March. Josanne Cassar has interviewed the scriptwriter Malcolm Galea on The Malta Independent.
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Traditional games in Vittoriosa tomorrow

2009-02-21T11:03:00.005+01:00

If you would like to try your hand at a few traditional Maltese games, pop down to Vittoriosa on Sunday and test your skill at passju or the precision of your aim at boċċi, ballun stop, brilli or xixu.

The majority of games were at the height of their popularity during the British period when many families were unable to afford the luxury of toys and the streets were still generally free of traffic.

Those attending can choose to chase a rival team in gwerra Franċiża, do their best to grab a handkerchief before their opponent during il-logħba tal-maktur, try their utmost not to be caught in ħarba or sprint after the bee in iż-żunżana ddur id-dur.

Those who prefer something less physically demanding may opt for ħaġa moħġaġa or bum bum il-bieb, while others may decide to attend a kite-making workshop and fly their self-made manoċċa, as it is known in Żejtun, off St John's Cavalier.

Particular games also mirrored the socio-political context of the time and represented what was expected from children in their future as adults.

Gwerra Franċiża and ħarba for instance strongly reflected the experience of war, with the aim of the games being the rescue and capture of prisoners. While boys were often involved in play that gave them the chance to show physical prowess, girls preferred to participate in games that suggested their future station in life.

One such game was bum bum il-bieb, which consisted in choosing a beautiful damsel to be the wife of an itinerant Knight looking for love - the dream of many a young lady.

Held on the streets of the village and within the Inquisitor's Palace, this festival aims to engage children and parents alike in the revival of games which for decades were played on the streets of the islands' towns and villages.

The local council and Heritage Malta (National Museum of Ethnography - Inquisitor's Palace) teamed up to organise this festival which will take place between 1 and 6 p.m.

Buses 1 and 2 from Valletta Gate (47c) or take a water taxi from Custom House or the Fisheries on the Grand Harbour side of Valletta.

Read source

Valletta underground

2009-02-19T14:17:00.005+01:00

"Everybody has his pet theory: that there are underground links between all the eight auberges, that there is an underground corridor linking the Grand Masters’ palace to the Manoel Theatre, that there are even corridors linking Valletta to Cottonera, Valletta to Manoel Island, and so on.

People tell all sorts of stories but when you press them, they suddenly become vague and refer to what some old man, long dead, once told them, or they say the war destroyed everything."

Read the rest of Noel Grima's article on what lies beneath.

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On the night of Carnival

2009-02-18T18:29:00.005+01:00

I have always known Carnival in Malta to be a children's carnival, colour and fun but always innocent and without the witty comment you can find in, say, the Viareggio carnival. The floats never go beyond the playful rhyme and the costumes have none of the grotesque elements of the Nadur carnival on Malta's sister island.

This year's Carnival will have a more pronounced night ingredient, making it appeal more to adults. The night of Saturday 21 February will have Carnival parties in St George's Square, Market Square, St Johns Square and along Republic, Merchant and St John Street with the participation of Carnival floats and dancing companies.

The Chamber of Commerce in Republic Street and the Manoel Theatre will also make a fabulous venues for the Gran Ballo La Vallette. To book for the Ball, call +356 21 228 038 or +356 9949 9618.

Snips and snails, and puppy dog tails,

2009-01-08T20:49:00.005+01:00

What are the Maltese made of? "Sugar and spice, and everything nice", or "Snips and snails, and puppy dog tails"? Well I came across this on Facebook. Fiona Scerri's from Headley, London writes:

You know you are Maltese if:
·You move abroad with 2 kgs of frozen pastizzi and a Timpana recipe in your luggage
·You move out from your parents house.......to move in with your spouse
·You have been officially engaged longer than you have been dating............while waiting for your house to be built
·Your best friend lives 2 miles away, but you only ever drive there
·Its a point of honour for workmen to ignore health & safety rules....they're for pansies right?
·Your idea of pimping your escorts, capris and trucks is to stick banners across the windscreen with legends such as "rambo sex" or "baby think twice" in funky fonts.
·You think the north is entirely culturally different from the south….with the total geographical area being 18miles long.
·You go to church every Sunday even though you're atheist
·You carefully cultivate a biker/metaller/junkie image.... but you don't have a bike license, and have never even smelled dope
·You are an independent adult, but your mum still buys your underpants and does your washing.
·Shrines to the Madonna and posters of Pamela Anderson share pride of place on public transport
·Catholicism is defined by your willingness to sabotage other parish feasts in order to ensure your own has the biggest fireworks
·Boys compare moustache growth in primary school
·If you're not pregnant by the end of your honeymoon, your grandmother starts saying special prayers
·You strike bargains with the Almighty in order to achieve your ends.
·You call your children Helmut, Siegfried and Brunhilda, even though you have no German connections and have never heard of Wagner.
·Your idea of eating out is going to the Diner in the Airport Viewing Gallery
·You go to Catechism classes to pick up girls
·You beat up a supporter of a rival football club…..even though your club won….the teams weren’t playing each other….and the clubs are foreign!
·You go to other people’s weddings in order to critique the wedding souvenirs
·You send your children to private lessons even though they are the top of their class
·At a roundabout, the biggest vehicle wins
·Any possession larger than a bicycle must be blessed by a priest.
·The worst thing you can call a man is a sperm.
·You work for the civil service and your summer working hours are 7:30am to 1:30pm….because the govt. doesn’t want to fork out for airconditioners.
·Your living room suite of furniture is 20 years old, but its still covered in plastic.
·You freak because someone in your street is painting their front door the same colour as yours.
·You lie to your parents about staying with a friend in order to party all night and get busted cos your third cousin twice removed saw you and ratted to his sister who told her mother who told your Aunty who told your Mum………before you even got home next morning!

Thanks Fiona for the insight. Some of the observations will not mean anything to non-Maltese speakers but others will, especially if you have any interest in anthropology.

Yeah-ha! Wi-Fi!

2008-12-24T21:02:00.000+01:00

After many a guest's hint, I have finally yielded and introduced Wi-Fi to Valletta G-House. So now, those of you that could not possibly do without internet communication, can also choose to be guests here without having a fit. Hurrah!

I must admit to feeling slightly zesty myself as I sit with a cup of coffee in the kitchen of VGH whilst being able to update the blog. The first guests to experience this will also start the New Year here. It augers well for 2009.

Renzo Piano back to Valletta

2008-12-03T08:38:00.000+01:00

The project for Valletta designed by Renzo Piano made no headway 20 years ago. Is there a possibility that Malta will this time allow the architect of Berlin's Potsdamer Platz and the Centre Georges Pompidou to put his stamp on our city, to put Valletta back on the international map?

Annaliza Borg reports for The Malta Independent:

Italian architect Renzo Piano is to redesign plans for the Royal Opera House building, with the part on the side of Republic Street to become a centre of cultural and historic value. The other area is to host the House of Representatives.

The idea of building an underground car park underneath Freedom Square, which was being considered for some time, was totally abolished as was the idea of developing an underground bus terminus. The bus terminus will be included in Piano’s plans for City Gate but a much smaller terminus for no more than 20 buses at one time will be designed. This would be part of the public transport reform by which the government is proposing some four or five bus termini around Malta rather than one main terminus, among other changes.

The projects will be financed by public funds, since no commercial centres are to be included at City Gate, thus a public-private partnership could not work out. Existing shops at City Gate are to be relocated to other areas. The government could also not obtain EU funds to finance the projects, Dr Gonzi said, since plans were not being drawn up on commercial lines but aimed at giving Valletta its original concept of a city at the centre of the Mediterranean. However, EU funds could be used for the regeneration of Fort St Elmo, Marsamxetto and the Grand Harbour.

While the government is focusing on City Gate and the Royal Opera House site, the Prime Minister pointed out that Fort St Elmo too should be restored. The government is proposing that Fort St Elmo becomes a “centre of culture and art,” part of which is to be used in connection with the cruise liner business. Dr Gonzi also put forward the government’s idea to start work on Fort St Elmo while the City Gate and Royal Opera House projects are in progress.

IMPORTANT - Valletta G-House e-mail contact has been down

2008-11-26T10:02:00.001+01:00

If you have sent us an e-mail this last week and have not had an answer, please e-mail us again or call us on +44 781 39 888 27. Thank you

Christmas in Valletta

2008-11-21T09:54:00.000+01:00

Christmas in Malta is not what it used to be, in that it has become as commercial an event as in any other country. Yet the religious pomp and ceremony are still highly visible. Most of the imagery from my childhood is also still there. A statue of baby Jesus in a crib is given prominence in the entrance hall to most Maltese homes surrounded by 'gulbiena', canary seed shoots that are grown white in the dark (I clearly recall us as children placing them under the bed) that provide a glow when lit by Christmas lights. Most family homes will have their own crib (presepju) with all the characters from the bible story. I am not absolutely sure whether the traditional child sermon (priedka tat-tifel) has survived in the parish churches. The boy or girl would learn the sermon off by heart and it would be the heart warming part of the midnight mass. Then there are the processions where children carry the baby Jesus in a manger as they sing carols in the streets of the villages on Christmas eve.

This time round I have acquired an antique statue of baby Jesus to place in Valletta G-House. It's in plaster but has its own (blond!) hair and it will definitely add more Christmassy atmosphere to the house along with the other decorations we usually put up at this time.

We still have some Christmas time booking offers for those that have not decided where to spend their holidays this Christmas. Take the opportunity and book now!

Valletta Alive website

2008-11-10T19:13:00.000+01:00

Rather busy this week but wanted to mention a couple of things I came across that you might appreciate being aware of. The first is an information website supported by the Valletta Alive Foundation with information about What to do in Valletta, restaurants and the like.

Second is the news that Malta International Airport is now offering free Wi-Fi to commuters. Our guests in Valletta have various options as to internet cafes close to Valletta G-House. The one I love going to because of its well lit interiors is M&S in Strait Street (about 10 minutes walk from VGH) but there are various others within walking distance.

VGH amongst Elle magazine's hip new destinations

2008-11-07T14:59:00.000+01:00

December's issue of Elle magazine is full of ideas in its travel section on how to dodge the credit crunch.

From four-day trips to 10-day luxe breaks, there's a HIP NEW DESTINATION for every budget. What credit crunch?

Amongst some amazing destinations it features Malta as "a more grown-up, less expensive Ibiza" highlighting some of the less well known entertainment places like the gorgeous Bedouin Bar in Paceville, with its chilled Moroccan atmosphere (must give it a try myself, as soon as I have a moment).

It could not but mention the stylish Twotwentytwo in Valletta (although the correspondent managed to get the name and url wrong, calling it Twenty Two). This bar/restaurant has hogged the international press' attention and is being hailed as the way forward for Valletta, contemporary architecture that compliments the history and culture of the city.

Elle also mentions Muddies in Balluta (not my kind of thing at all) as well as "the elegant waterfront restaurants in St Julians" and then concentrates on the city of Valletta which it says "is a great base with unbeatable views and shopping".

When it comes to where to stay, Elle lauds Valletta G-House

Valletta G-House is a chic apartment in a 16th century townhouse. It's crammed with original features, oil paintings adorn the stone walls, the kitchen is sculpted out of the cellar and heavy antique furniture gives a sense of grandeur. Stone stairs lead to the huge bedroom with a mosaic floor and vast oak bed.

The oil paintings mentioned by Elle magazine are photographic reinterpretations of two famous paintings - Liberty Leading the People and The Raft of the Medusa

Ken's world

2008-11-06T16:10:00.000+01:00

I have not seen Kenneth for some time and it's all my fault for not getting in touch since I have been in Malta. Kenneth Zammit Tabona does some of the most amazing people studies I have ever encountered. His drawings of Maltese landscape are well sought after but what I love most are those works portraying characters from life. There is something quite magical about the people that inhabit his Malta. I immediately warm to them and want to get to know them more, but perhaps it is their enigmatic side that I'm fatally attracted to.

68 St Lucy Street

2008-11-04T18:22:00.000+01:00

A fascinating new exhibition space in Valletta has brought new life into the city. Alexandra Pace and her partner Nadine who are the creative minds behind the agency LAB1977 have transformed an empty property in Valletta (a heirloom) into this amazing 4 storey space to launch RedPrints, a fine art website. The space itself is worth a visit, large high ceiling rooms with patterned tiles. The current exhibition is open until 11 November and is divided in 4 sections; 56 photos lovingly printed in a darkroom.

The parallel projects - creating 56, mostly black and white photographs, shot on film, and the simultaneous rehabilitation of the house - have been followed on Facebook, attracting artists' attention. Ms Pace has posted both art and conversion processes online, through images and video, allowing viewers to take part in the progress.
The 16 rooms remain empty but Ms Pace maintains that a gallery should be simple and not overshadow the works. They have been cleaned up and adequate lighting and hanging facilities installed, while the colour schemes of the walls are those of her grandmother's days but afforded a fresh coat.
They are adorned with collections of sculptural male and female nudes, Soldier Boy and Boutique; another of underwater shots, Santa Marija; and one depicting food and entitled Maggie's Kitchen, after the photographer's mother, who was brought up in the house and is a "fantastic" cook.
The Times of Malta

Chefs-d'oeuvres de l'Armurerie de Malte

2008-11-04T17:47:00.000+01:00

An exhibition of Maltese armoury is presently being held at the Musée de l'armée in rue de Grenelle in Paris. Here is what Napoleonica magazine writes about the exhibition that will create new interest in the islands of Malta, in particular Valletta, amongst the French:

The Musée de l'armée pays tribute to the rich military and artistic heritages of Malta and the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, which held sovereignty over the island during the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibition explores the 'patronage' of the Knights and Grandmasters of the Order, and is organised by the Maltese Embassy in France, the Maltese government and the Musée de l'Armée. This is a rare opportunity to see on display some exceptional items, and in particular a number of loans from the Palace Armoury of Malta. The latter holds many prestiguous examples of weapons and pieces of armour dating from 16th to 18th centuries. Rarely are these pieces seen outside of the Grandmaster's Palace, located in Valletta, the Maltese capital. As well as these items, there are also a number of paintings, artillery pieces and examples of gold and silverwork to accompany the presentation.

Napoleon.org

Special Valletta Edition magazine

2008-11-02T08:15:00.000+01:00

I will admit that since last special Valletta edition (Vol 1) of Flair magazine, I have been craving for the second. The first edition gave me the opportunity to have a peek at the interiors of a couple of buildings I had never had the opportunity to enter. The second volume has just arrived in the shops this morning and I have plans to sit down over a few cups of tea this afternoon and read through it. The article about St John co-Cathedral's tapestries will be the first I will savour.

In the meantime I shall leave you with the pages within Flair that feature Valletta G-House. Enjoy!

Open publication

Winter - What's on in Malta

2008-10-31T19:58:00.000+01:00

We're at the end of October already. Wasn't it Summer a moment ago? I've heard John Lewis in the UK is already set up for Christmas, and I don't think it will be long before shops here in Malta catch on.

Personally, I'm rather looking forward to the annual Wine Festival that's being organised in Valletta this year. That's from 02 to 09 November from 09:00 to 12:00 and from 17:00 to 23:30 at Great Siege Square in Valletta. Traditional Maltese food accompanying some exquisite Maltese wine - seems like heaven.

Also in November is the little known annual Brazilian music concert - Cafe Brazil - organised by Fringe! Productions at MITP in St Christopher Street, Valletta. Entertaining us will be pandero Sergio Krakowsky, guitarist Sandro Zerafa and flutist Jocelyn Mienniel. From Paris, Brazilian singer Catia Werneck will also be performing a selection of sambas and bossa novas, original songs and Brazilian classics. (Get your tickets from +356 7940 4134. Concert starts at 21:00 on 21 November.

December still seems far off but, as far as Christmas pantomimes go, this is the time to book as they are extremely popular here. MADC's panto is the classic one in this country and will have you in fits as well as keep you up to date with all the latest local gossip. Alan Montanaro has hogged the part of the Dame for years now and this year he will be playing the part of Zeza in The Remakable Voyage of Sinbad (the tailer). Dates: 19 -23, 26 - 30 Dec 2008, 2 - 4 Jan 2009 | Time Weekdays - 19:3, Sat & Sun Evenings - 20:00, Matinées - 15:00 | Location MFCC. Ta'Qali

At the beautiful Manoel Theatre in Valletta, it's Masquerade's panto "Jack and the Beanstalk" that will be performed this time round. Performances: 22, 23, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 DEC; 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 Jan | All shows start at 7.30PM, except for Saturdays and Sundays with 2 shows at 3pm & 8pm. Booking is open.

Canadian Affability and November Oranges

2008-10-31T14:15:00.000+01:00

If there is one thing that I love about having a holiday place is the people I get to meet. With some, there's an immediate link and you feel as though one has known them all one's life. It does not happen with each and every guest - most guests choose a holiday rental precisely to be independent so one cannot expect to strike instant friendships each time. I guess some people are just friendlier, like our Canadian guests Jack and Sherrie. I send my love to them here. I understand they have not had the most pleasant of journeys, going back.

I have just picked up our next guests from the airport. They were booked for the November Oranges Special. The idea was that my dad's tree usually produces some lovely juicy Maltese oranges but they were not ripe in time, so I drove all around Malta looking for ripe Maltese oranges. I did eventually find a little shop in Valletta that had some. I added a jar of Savina's lovely Honey with Orange (lovingly presented) and a Medina wine bottle from Delicata to the welcome pack and thought I would photograph it for the blog.

October warm nights

2008-10-28T22:07:00.001+01:00

It's the end of October and we can still enjoy the warm evening air looking at the beautiful view from the Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta. Eat your heart out, my friends!

A city that is alive

2008-10-28T20:53:00.000+01:00

Above: The Chamber of Commerce & Enterprise - detail

Last Saturday I attended the Valletta 450 Seminar organised by the Valletta Alive Foundation at the Malta Chamber of Commerce & Enterprise. Excellent opportunity to meet others who have the capital city at heart and to listen to various fascinating views of the way forward.

Valletta will be 450 years old in 2016 and it is also a contender in 2018 for Cultural capital of Europe. Whether it does make it to being City of Culture in 2018 is to be seen. It all depends on how hard the people and government of the islands work at it.

There was talk by Ms. Elizabeth Aquilina from the MTA of Boutique Hotels to help bring Valletta to life. Could not help but feel proud that Valletta G-House is the pioneer of boutique places to stay!

Two presentations by architects Paul Camilleri and David Felice really captured our imagination but it was only towards the end that the seminar started to get really interesting. This is how the Malta Independent journalist Noel Grima put it:

In the end, it was the incisive analysis of Fr Peter Serracino Inglott which exposed what lay at the real heart of the question: the dilemma present in government’s thinking about Valletta and its future.

Rounding up a whole morning’s debate, at a seminar held at the Chamber of Commerce and Enterprise by the Valletta Alive Foundation, Prof. Serracino Inglott positioned himself at the other extreme of one of the first speakers at the seminar, Minister Austin Gatt.

...All that Valletta needs, Dr Gatt said, was enforcement, enforcement, enforcement. We cannot allow everyone, he said, to do what he thinks is his right. He referred to people parking on the pavement outside his home (had he not rushed away, he would have possibly seen the car owned by a former colleague of his, identifiable by its unique number plate, parked exactly there), rubbish, advertising boards (such as that in the middle of the steps of Republic Street advertising a restaurant further down), people throwing cigarette butts on the ground, pavements broken because people parked their cars, and worse, their trucks on them (The solution, he warned, could be just like in Britain or France – remove the pavements and install cement bollards instead).

Fr Peter said this is a perfect example of how residents reason, even though he too comes from Valletta and considers himself a Valletta resident. What residents want, Fr Peter said, is for Valletta to remain a showcase of the past, encapsulating a past that is gone, somewhat like Mdina.

For Fr Peter, and other speakers at the seminar, there is another scenario for Valletta, Valletta as a living city, which lives 24 hours a day, a centre of arts and culture.

Above: Prof. Serracino Inglott's wind-up

...Fr Peter faulted Dr Gatt on the figures of Valletta.

Dr Gatt referred to the decrease in the population: 35,000 people lived in Valletta in the post-war years and now there were only 10,000. Not true, Fr Peter rebutted. It never had 35,000 people, and he is older than Dr Gatt. And today it only has 6,300.

Dr Gatt argued that when Valletta was at its most populous, there were people living in tenements (kerrejjiet) just next door to his house in Republic Street, where 27 people lived in five rooms and there was no toilet except for a hole in the yard. There were people living in cellars, and even in caves near Marsamxett, beggars at City Gate and so on.

Fr Peter did not dispute this tale of poverty. He even added that the most decrepit areas of Valletta, like the Due Balli, which used to house criminals and drug addicts, are now being taken over by illegal immigrants.

But the ideal number of inhabitants of the city must have been somewhere midway between the highest population figure and its present figure

...Dr Gatt said that apart from the four big restoration projects such as the Opera House, City Gate and so on, Valletta did not need any huge investment. What it needed mostly was, as already said, enforcement.

This elicited a stinging riposte from Fr Peter.

The City Gate project alone would cost some Lm100 million and another three to four million euros to do the Opera House. One must not forget St Elmo, because according to the Renzo Piano grand plan for Valletta, this would be the second pole of the reconstruction of Valletta.

Truly Trazzled

2008-09-20T17:56:00.000+02:00

Started by Adam Rugel, Trazzler is a travel website that goes after inspiration. Rather than for loads of information it goes for a feeling. This is what it says about Valletta (and yes - it does mention our house):

"Most tourists, looking for nothing more than a sunny beach, tend to bypass lovely Valletta for the soulless package-vacation resorts further along the coast. Which is why the city—touted as a living museum—still retains the unspoiled, weathered charm of a place forgotten. Perched on a peninsula with panoramic views of the Mediterranean and the ancient harbor below, Valletta's architecture is a baroque dream—sun-drenched honey-colored limestone, wood balconies, carvings, and shady nooks. Get inside the warm glow of those stone walls and book a week in a 16th century apartment (like the romantic Valetta G-House) and explore the island to your heart's content."

Notte Bianca

2008-09-20T15:29:00.000+02:00

I recall last year's Notte Bianca brought to Valletta an atmosphere of rejoicing and, although the crowds in some of the central parts of Valletta took one's breadth away, a great excitement and pride in the city filled the fine summer air. The queues at places such as Castille I intentionally avoided (I have had occasion to be invited for a concert there before anyway) and went for some of the less well known auberges that opened their doors to the public on the occasion. The city for one night belongs in its entirety to the people who flock mostly via public transport to the Capital City.

Notte Bianca this year promises to be spread further afield (as far as the Auberge de Baviere in the North of the city). The programme is not set in stone yet but here are a few of the highlights that caught my attention.

Fashion will this year feature at The Malta Stock Exchange building with designers Charles and Ron whose shows are full of glamour and drama. I have known these two amazing creatives for some time and feel that their real success is yet to come.

04 October also coincides with the date Caravaggio escaped from Malta and in occasion there is an Italo-Maltese theatre production "Caravaggio in Bianco e Nero"

Shakespeare, a product of the 16th century will live within the walls of the city built in the same time. Follow the performers as Valletta doubles as Verona, the courts of Venice and the backdrop for over 30 plays.

This year, museums will join churches and historical buildings in opening up their doors for an evening of Culture and fun, an evening of leisurely summer wonderings about a city with history in abundance.

As the night of the 4th falls on a free night for Valletta G-House, I will be having some friends over for a drink and something to eat, a break from the crowds. It's not often I get to use the house myself - the privilege usually falls to those who have booked the house months before.

I will blog again after the event and give you a taste of how it went.

My Liza

2008-09-04T13:38:00.000+02:00

First thing I do as soon as I know I'm visiting the islands is to contact my sister and plot the visit's cultural programme. We'll look at what's on at the Manoel and the St James Cavalier Centre, which World Cinema film or theatre production to watch. I have no inkling however whether my sister will submit to accompany me and admit to a secret admiration for the stereotypical love of gay men - Liza with a "z". On Minelli's first concert tour in Italy, her production team has included Malta, partly I think due to their mistaken impression that the islands of Malta make part of Italy (Liza's official programme reads "Malta, Italy").

Liza will be performing at the Mediterranean Conference Centre in Valletta (literally up the road from Valletta G-House) on 04 November 2008 and tickets can be bought from the MCC.

NOTE: THIS CONCERT WAS FEATURED ON LISA'S WEBSITE BUT SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN CANCELLED. WHEN I LAST LOGGED INTO MS. MINELLI'S WEBSITE I SAW NO MENTION THE CONCERT IN MALTA

2008-09-02T21:04:00.000+02:00

I'm currently spending some time on the island of Malta to work on a project here and it might be some months before I have to face the British weather. While in Malta, I shall take over picking our guests from the airport. This is one thing I miss doing when I'm away. Dad usually does the honours when I'm away and they simply love him. I remember how nervous he was with the first few guests until he relaxed and started being his old charming self.

Not much to say at the moment. My partner Mike will be visiting in a few week's time and I'm looking forward to trying out this restaurant in Rabat I found out about on this blog. The restaurant is called Rogantino's and has had some excellent reviews.

Anyone tries it before I have the opportunity to, please do leave a note with your comments.

2008-03-01T09:55:00.000+01:00

A couple of weeks ago, Guardian travel writer Benji Lanyado, stayed at our place in Valletta for a couple of nights. Today his article about Valletta appears on the Travel Section of the British national newspaper. There is always some trepidation as well as excitement associated with reviews. Since I am currently in Malta, it's a good thing the Guardian is accessible online.

On my beloved city he writes how most visitors overlook it:

Malta's self-championed emergence as a bastion of packaged holidays and cruise liner tourism made one rather fortuitous omission. The five-star hotels of Sliema and St Julians and the resorts in the north-east were bundled up in packages and sold in abundance, leaving Valletta, the tiny Unesco world heritage capital city, largely untouched by tourism. A grid of thin undulating streets all clad in white honey-glazed stone, it feels like an unpolished, less toy-townish version of Dubrovnik.

Benji describes Valletta G-House as one of the finest apartments he has come across and challenges a friend who's impression of Malta is "like grunge, britpop and Gloria Estefan comebacks" to stay at the house. One minute in The Valletta G-House will, he writes, question his friend's perception of the island as one that only appeals to the blue rinse brigade.

Valletta G-House was not the only boutique bed mentioned. Benji loved both properties and mentions that "both apartments are the side-projects of gay men with fashion photography backgrounds". Indeed I know of several houses in Valletta being lovingly restored by gay men in the creative field. Some of these houses are grand little palaces in their own right. The funny thing is that Benji might have inadvertently outed someone.

Instant Valletta

2008-02-17T13:10:00.000+01:00

Matthew Teller writes on The Observer why Valletta is the place to be in early Spring.

Forget Malta's image of cheap holidays amid concrete carbuncles: Valletta is a seriously cultured, beautiful city, designed on an orderly grid with the sea on three sides: as you stroll the main Triq ir-Repubblika, blue water can be seen to both left and right. Start out at St John's Co-Cathedral, built by the Knights of St John to celebrate their 1565 victory over the Ottomans. Its interior is all lavish Baroque gilt and frescoes, and it houses one of Caravaggio's finest paintings, The Beheading of St John the Baptist. Sample, too, the Grand Master's Palace, now the seat of Malta's parliament; it is awash with marble, gilt and ornate coats-of-arms.

Culture vultures could stop in at the Museum of Fine Art and the National Museum of Archaeology, but be sure to leave time for the hilltop Upper Barrakka Gardens, which offer breathtaking views over the Grand Harbour.

Travel Romance

2008-01-22T10:26:00.000+01:00

The Guardian has dedicated last Saturday's Travel Section to Romance and has featured a 100 ways to treat one's lover. This is what they said about Valletta G-House.

Slightly unfairly, Malta is still often seen as being a little stuffy but this Valletta townhouse manages to buck the trend. The G House is a beguiling mix of fashion-mag camp and trad Maltese styling (dark-wood detailing and a fabulous rustic cellar kitchen). Photographic "interpretations" of paintings by Gericault and Delacroix sit on honey-coloured walls. The Maltese capital's waterfront is a 10-minute walk away and, for true romantics, the apartment even boasts a Romeo and Juliet-style wooden balcony.

Souls engraved

2008-01-21T16:18:00.000+01:00

One of my all-time favourite pleasures when visiting countries is to explore car boot sales. One can find a myriad of treasures there, all with a history of their own. Hold that horrible 50's lamp to your ear and you can hear whispers of lovers' tiffs. Open wide that old Applied Mathematics school book and run your nose over its willing spine. You'll detect many a tedious hour of a child spent gazing out at the early spring through grubby school window panes.

Most intriguing are photos, for none like them offer their story up so ungrudgingly. The very souls of their protagonists are proudly engraved on yellowing paper.

Who is that tastefully dressed gentleman in front of the drinks kiosk in St John's square? He holds his cigarette so elegantly to his waist, his eyes looking away into the distance, a wisp of hair flying above his head. Who are those young ladies chaperoned by their frumpy aunt on an outing by the sea on a lovely sunny day?

I have started a small collection of old photos. Perhaps at some point I will organise them and feature them online. It's hardly an original idea. Someone has already got there before me but perhaps mine will be themed by country and city. Anyone throwing out photos of people he or she does not recognise any more, I beg you, please, send them to me and I promise to cherish them forever.

PS. The photos above were bought from a car boot sale that is open every Sunday morning in Birgu, in a parking lot close to Cafe Riche. The other regular car boot sale I know of is that in Razzett tal-Hbiberija centre for the disabled.

Ukrainian's view of Malta

2008-01-19T19:02:00.000+01:00

I came across this video by a visitor to Malta, a young Ukrainian film maker. He filmed it especially to show Malta to his friends and parents back in Ukraine. The soundtrack is an "Everyday song" by the Maltese band Winter Moods

The Maltese

2008-01-18T19:48:00.000+01:00

I have always been fascinated by a side of Malta that the Malta Tourist Board neglects. Back in the late sixties, Desmond Morris used the Maltese to showcase body language on the BBC. Indeed, one of my main pleasures when visiting is man-watching. The Maltese show their heart on their sleeve. Their expressions are manifest in their faces and their hands. They are loud and theatrical.

When I first introduced my partner to my extended Maltese family on a bright Sunday at my late grandmother's home, I could see the look of alarm on his face. Their normal conversation (Greek to my partner) veered towards politics and what to my family was a normal, if slightly passionate, discussion - came across like a fully fledged and aggressive fight. The loud voices, the exasperated hand gestures close to the face, the frowning brows - all suggesting my family was about to throttle each other. All this while chowing down on my grandma's appetizers.

All this drama is highlighted in the way Maltese live out their faith. The religious festas, the OTT decorations and statues, their love for masochistic manifestations during the Lent period (soon with us) when they follow statues of the "Duluri" (The suffering Madonna- complete with 7 daggers in her heart), and when some followers in Ku Klux Klan like attire whip their backs, dragging weights attached to their legs. They are also a people of contradictions. Neighbouring villages compete for the best village feast while insulting their neighbour's village patron saint. They are also well known for the most "creative" swearing, combining the sacred with the profane.

If I had to compare any other city to that of Valletta and a people to the Maltese, it would be Naples. Whilst the Malta Tourist Board presents pristine pictures of tranquillity, Malta and in particular Valletta is a picture of cacophony and noise, both aurally and visually.

That the Maltese are a big part of what sells the islands of Malta is acknowledged, but only the sanitized version is presented. It is of course sweet to see the Valletta G-House neighbours lowering down their baskets whenever the bread delivery van shouts his wares. It is also very helpful that most Maltese would go out of their way to attend to a guest, but nothing compares to watching them gossip in a corner of the street, magnified expressions on face, thundering voices even when hushed with secrecy. It is also exciting to watch them drive, waving through the traffic - no indicators, driver's hand out of the window, still gesturing to make his/her point to the passengers.

No door bells are necessary when God gave them a fine pair of lungs. In the narrow streets of Valletta, people have whole conversations from one window to the other.

This beautiful theatre of the street takes place amidst the baroque surroundings, faded glory from the time of the Knights when the Grand Master built "a city of palaces built by gentlemen, for gentlemen" (Benjamin Disraeli). The city is Baroque in character, with elements of Mannerism and Neo-Classical theirfore grand in its character but the crumbling edifices are still obstructed by layers of electricity wires that somehow add to its charm (OK I'm stretching it there).

The Maltese people are a mixture of Sicilian and Arab ancestry and it shows in their character.

Children's project for Valletta

2007-09-06T10:42:00.000+02:00

For those of you that have experienced the magic of Valletta at a night packed with the arts, entertainment and celebration - Notte Bianca - last year, the second edition shall be on 06 October this year. The Malta Independent describes it thus: "For one sleepless night, museums, theatres, arts and cultural centres, libraries, churches and chapels, historical sites, auberges, cinemas, streets, squares and gardens will be hosting events of different genres, giving life to a unique experience while making the arts accessible to all."

An interesting article that caught my eye on today's Times of Malta spoke of a project led by children from different backgrounds to point out the beauty spots in their capital city while also emphasising the decay that this World Heritage City is the victim of.

"'I hope the local council will do something to improve the situation when it sees our photos'

About 20 children from Valletta will be meandering through the city's streets today to capture the beautiful, the abandoned and the interesting on camera.

The world seen through children's eyes is very different, though they did mention that the broken pavements and pot-holed roads bothered them and would feature under the abandoned part of the city.

Assembled at the YMCA Drop-in Centre, in Valletta, the children, aged six to 11, gave a press conference to tell the media all about the project.

The children come from different backgrounds, and some are even homeless, but despite their age and social differences, they are united in a common goal.

They have one week to snap away, using HP digital cameras, supplied by Systec Ltd, at anything they deem falls under any of the three perspectives.

They chattered excitedly when they started talking about what they thought was interesting; from a toy shop to museums and the Barrakka Gardens...even though they were not allowed to take their pets there.

The abandoned parts of the city will include a "dilapidated building, with the glass of windows shattered by a storm"; full dustbins that "stink"; people who throw rubbish on the streets; or the fact that they had no playground where to play.

The beautiful features a chubby-faced angel carved out of stone, looming high on the side of the Jesuits' church in Merchants Street, and the President's Palace.

Jean Paul Mifsud, chairman of this non-profit voluntary organisation, explained that the project is completely run by the children and they have had to learn to elect a leader and deal with the process. The children have already been meeting up to agree on the sites to capture on camera, choosing their representatives, preparing the press invites and learning how to use the camera. The final objective is to set up an exhibition with their works, as part of the overall Old Valletta Project, which will be launched next month. The whole idea started germinating in Mr Mifsud's head when, earlier this year, he set aside some time with his son Jacques Paul to start collecting old photos of Valletta. From there the idea developed and became an outreach programme for the city's children.

"I hope the local council will do something to improve the situation in Valletta when it sees our photos," said a young boy."

Ariadne Massa / Times of Malta.

Coronation Street in Malta?

2007-08-17T14:38:00.000+02:00

Well, I'm not one for soaps but I came across Steve and Eileen's visit to Malta (most of the scenes are in Gozo actually) and thought I'd inflict the torture on you. Well, you do get to see some pleasant shots of the Cittadella (Gozo).

The best part for me is the Steve's love interest that turns out to be rather special. Pity it seems Steve is left speechless. With people as beautiful as the Maltese, it can happen often...

Streets Alive

2007-08-14T11:16:00.001+02:00

The theme for this Friday's celebrations organised by BOV Streets Alive is Valletta Romantica. For the occasion streets such as St Ursola, St John and Sta Lucia will be candle-lit. The part I am going to miss most, not being in Malta at the moment, is the Neapolitan song at the Upper Barakka Gardens. Last month I was in Naples itself and its music brings it all back. If anyone out there has a camera and would like to share the experience with us, please do not hesitate to leave a message and I will get in touch. Apparently last Friday's celebration featured the wonderful folk group Etnika.

Old memories - new Malta

2007-07-15T09:51:00.000+02:00

As I was brought up on the islands of Malta, I have fond untarnished memories of the place. Sometimes the urge to conserve these memories conflicts with the changes I see on my visits. It is unfair of me (and perhaps ever so slightly pretentious) to want to preserve the Malta of my youth when the inhabitants demand change.

At Valletta G-House we do host guests who have known the old Malta, whose recollections are soon to be reconciled with today's reality. My ingeniuity at attempting to prepare them for this finds they do not have such expectations. As it happens, they are astounded by the many beautiful things that have remained the same. Perhaps it helps that they are staying in a city protected by its World Heritage status.

James Jackson has lived in Malta during the 60s. He talks about Malta's metamorphosis in last week's The Daily Telegraph (UK):

"Somehow, the spirit of the island survived, the century changed, and inexpensive air travel ensured the lagered-up and clinically obese could reach every other inch of our threatened planet. Malta was faced with a pressing challenge: to reinvent and rebrand itself or die. It chose the former.

Visit Valletta, that baroque gem of a capital perched above one of the greatest natural harbours on earth, today, and you will find a manic pedestrianisation and congestion-charge programme under way. Gone are the tawdry shops and fly-blown cafés; vanished are the derelict wharves and vacant warehouses.
In their place is a harbour promenade lined with bars and restaurants able to mix with the salubrious best. There are super-yachts in the marina (Roman Abramovich's vessel has been here) while the rich and famous are snapping up holiday bolt-holes on the neighbouring island of Gozo; international artistes, from Sting and Elton John to José Carreras and Andrea Bocelli, are content to fly in and perform."

"Restaurants, too, are participating in the Malta makeover, with their horizons broadening and menus becoming increasingly adventurous. Popular with bright young things is Da Pippo in Valletta's Melita Street, a trattoria that serves a blend of Italian, Sicilian and Maltese food. A little more formal, and favoured by the movers and shakers, is Rubino - with its well-stocked cellar - in Old Bakery Street. But Fusion 4 in St John's Cavalier Street is the place for dinner. Set into the 400-year-old city bastions of Valletta, and offering local and international dishes, it symbolises the new scope and ambition in the island's kitchens.

Nowhere is change more apparent than in Valletta's bars. The minimalist 222, just opened in the city walls, will doubtless act as a catalyst for similar venues catering to a cosmopolitan crowd. Walk down Strait Street - once the capital's red-light district - and nightlife is plainly thriving. Popular among the cognoscenti are Trabuxu - which occasionally hosts live bands and art events - and the larger and cooler Labyrinth. If not exactly swinging, the capital is definitely beginning to sway."

The film "Malta Story" - a trip down memory lane for lots

The Lascaris Gardens

2007-07-12T11:41:00.000+02:00

Another summer and here in the UK the weather leaves much to be desired. It is a shame that my last entry reads February 2007 - that's five months ago.

The Sunday Times of Malta today has a story about the Grandmaster Lascaris' Mall just outside Valletta Gate. These gardens have just been given a new lease of life with "4,000 square metres of paving" as well as restoration of the boundary wall an installation of a new lighting system. I do suggest if you do visit the islands in these days, that you go and have a visit in the evening (It's only 10 to 15 minutes walk from Valletta G-House).

The thing that I did not know before reading the article was the original use of the area. Grandmaster Lascaris, whose unsuccessful ban on carnival made him so unpopular with the Knights and the Maltese public, originally built the place for the Knights as a gym. The Knights used it to practice sports, including gymnastics. It was only on the arrival of the British that the place was reborn as a garden.

I do remember the bronze statue of Grandmaster Manoel de Vilhena that stood at one end of the garden, in the place of the Independence monument. The old statue is now close to the American Embassy, not far off where it stood before.

The Maltese Prime Minister will today be inaugurating the restored garden. Perhaps while he is there, he could have a look at the horrible blot on the entrance of Valletta that is the private Parking. I do recall that in the original plans, the multi storey parking had to be roofed and covered to look like a garden. Why is it that the owners were allowed to go back on the original plans? A lot of years have passed but I am sure that pressure can be put on the owners to keep to their word?

Wish I was there

2007-02-16T19:04:00.000+01:00

Two events will make this a rather exciting week for me. On 18 February's Malta Sunday Times, the lifestyle magazine HOMEWORKS will be featuring Valletta G-House. On Thursday 22 February the new Corporate Identity for the Malta Arts Council that I have been working on will be presented to the press. Unfortunately I cannot be present at any of the events as I shall be here in the UK for work.

For those that will be in Malta this week, do not miss Dimitri Shostakovich's Intimate Letters at the Manoel Theatre. The concept behind this series of concerts in various Auberges and Palaces around Malta, links the intimate letters of famous composers to their music. For those among you that, like myself, love classical music but feel inadequate when it comes to knowing who's behind the music, the letters that are read out present an excellent insight into the private lives of the composers. This makes it far easier to get into the spirit of the music and to comprehend, in small ways, the inspiration or tribulations that afflict the music's author. I was lucky enough to be invited to the first one at the Auberge de Castille. I had never ventured into the life of Verdi, a life full of tragedy, a life lived to the full. I had also never ventured inside the Prime-Minister's Offices, the Auberge de Castille, in particular the hall where the string quartet played, surrounded with Grandmasters' portraits. Shostakovich's music will be performed on 22 February by pianist Caroline Calleja, ProMuzika's violinist Sarah Spiteri and Robert Attard, Vladyslav Beliavskyi and Yaroslav Mikluho.

Catching up on a few centuries

2006-10-05T10:38:00.000+02:00

The satisfaction with providing good service to our Valletta G-House guests is amplified when we get great feedback. Our guests also leave some very useful tips for future guests and I am eternally grateful for this since I could not possibly keep our Valletta information so up to date if it were not for this.

My November trip to Malta is one thing I am so much looking forward to. I am sure to bring to you more information, photos and first hand experiences from the islands. The excitement starts with the journey. Already at the airport, I look around at the other passengers to see if I can spot anyone I know back from the first 20 years of my life and have fun guessing who's local and who's visiting. Aboard the plane I pick up the in-flight magazine - it's one of the pleasures of flying (yes, I know - I'm easily amused). This November I'm going with Air Malta and I look forward to perusing their new glossy - Sky Life for the first time.

One thing that I intend to do while in Malta this November is to visit a few historic sites and museums with my parents. This is what I missed out on when I was growing up there - "that was for the tourist, you see". But with an island packed with such a fascinating history, this will be a perfect opportunity to catch up. The Canadian lifestyle magazine enRoute is right when it says:

"Old customs die hard in Malta, and some local traditions date back further here than anywhere else on earth. Before humankind had invented the wheel or built Stonehenge, people were engineering megalithic temples in Malta to worship their fertility goddess. Since then, the country's spot on the map, at a narrow point in the Mediterranean between Europe and Africa, guaranteed that every seagoing civilization in the region would eventually land here and leave its mark. (Malta is an archipelago made of one large island - Malta - and four small ones, including Gozo and Comino.)

The countryside is so rich with relics that it becomes second nature to look twice at every scattered stone in case it might be an overlooked archaeological treasure. Few other countries seem to have more history per square kilometre. There are saggy-breasted goddesses at the temple sites, Roman catacombs, Arabic poetry etched in stone, spectacular baroque churches, relics from the British military and, of course, 25 kilometres of fortifications. All this, in an area smaller than Montreal island. "

Read the rest on enRoute

Back when the audience danced

2006-10-01T01:00:00.000+02:00

Today I came across a blog written by Olivia Hughes with some incredible facts about the history of the Manoel Theatre that I would like to share with you.

"Located in Old Theatre Street, this fascinating purpose built baroque building is an architectural jewel. It is said to be the third oldest theatre in Europe still in use and the oldest theatre in the Commonwealth. It dates back to the earlier decades of the eighteenth century, when the Grandmaster of the Knights of St. John of that time, Antonio Manoel de Vilhena decided in 1731 to build a public theatre for the honest recreation of the people according to the Latin inscription above the doorway. The 650-seat auditorium is quite unlike a conventional 20th century theatre, originally u-shaped it was transformed to an oval at the beginning of the 19th century. With a tiny stage and orchestra pit, the stalls seat only 272, but above them and beneath the gilded ceiling and magnificent crystal chandelier are three full tiers of boxes, including one very discreet grand-master's box. Beneath the theatre are two wells that serve to give the exceptional acoustics for which the theatre is renowned. The original theatre was smaller than the present one, as today's gallery and proscenium were added in 1812. It was also narrower, as boxes were also situated on the ground floor. Patrons in those far off days used to dance to the pieces in production, so the parterre would be illuminated during performances. All the delicate frescoes are of Mediterranean scenes bordered in 22-carat gold leaf. Originally it was called Public Theatre, later it bore the title Theatre Royal but, eventually in 1866 in tribute to its founder, it became and has remained the Manoel Theatre."

Read the rest on Olivia's blog

Love for the people's theatre

2006-09-29T10:45:00.000+02:00

The Manoel Theatre in Valletta, one of Europe's oldest theatre still in use was built originally as a court theatre for the 'honest entertainment of the people' by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena in 1731. I have fond memories of many a Maltese and foreign production at this wonderful small horseshoe shaped theatre with stalls decorated in gold. Be it light-hearted material such as the annual Malta Amateur Dramatic Company panto with its local political jibes or a foreign company's Hamlet, the theatre itself is always reason enough to ensure a pleasant evening. With my sister's involvement in theatre, I have been lucky enough to have been allowed backstage on various occasions. This has its own vibe.

Restoration works on the theatre's ceiling has just been completed and I hear that the removal of various layers of paint has revealed different shades of blue, darker towards the centre giving the ceiling a dome-like appearance. Restorers Mantella and Orsi from the Sante Guidi Restauri have been working on it for the last three years. 400 grammes of 24 carat leaves is purported to have been used to gild the theatre and restore it to its original lustre. The money for this has come from Din l-Art Helwa through HSBC sponsorship as well as from the Malta International Airport.

I guess at least some of the high airport taxes incurred on the Maltese using Luqa airport have gone to a great cause. I simply can't wait to have a look on my next visit to Malta in November. I can choose between a recital by one of Malta's leading guitarist Simon Schembri, a production of West Side Story or perhaps just go on the theatre museum's history tour.

Valletta G-House

Low cost airlines to Malta

2006-09-29T10:38:00.001+02:00

Major low-cost airline will be flying to Malta very soon, after a government appointed committee accepted the proposals of Ryanair and EasyJet. Flights from Luton airport in the UK, Pisa and Dublin have been proposed by Ryanair. You can already book flights to Malta from Luton on their web site for dates starting 31 October 2006. EasyJet also applied to start daily flights from Luton and five weekly ones from Mulhouse Basel. There is nothing to indicate this on their web site yet. From next March, Germany's major low-cost airline Germanwings will also operate two weekly flights from Cologne and another two flights a week from Stuttgart, on Tuesday and on Saturday. This has been a much awaited decision from repeat visitors to the Maltese islands and will certainly be welcomed as a further incentive. We have already had positive comments from past visitors from Dublin who are planning to stay at vallettahouse.com next year. The decision to have two airlines operating from Luton has been criticised by some as being too inconvenient an airport for most. That is perhaps not so much the case for those from central London. The competition to the existing airlines might also push AirMalta, British Airways and Alitalia to lower their prices. Already AirMalta seems to have reacted with return flights to Malta in November for less that Stg100. Ryanair is reported to be planning flights from October 31.

Transport London/Luton

A city less congested

2006-09-29T10:38:00.000+02:00

Ken Livingstone, the mayor of London, introduced a congestion charge to make London more manageable and its air more breathable. This has been greatly successful A similar scheme is being introduced to Valletta in March of 2007. It was meant to come about in January but there have been complications. A Park and Ride scheme is being prepared in Blata il-Bajda where one can park the car for free and enter Valletta with the free transport service provided. What will it mean for those visiting Valletta and the residents themselves? The congestion charge will hopefully discourage those that do not need to use the car, making it easier to park for those that do. It also means that a visitor might have to park outside of the city during the day (the congestion charge operates between 08:00 hrs and 19:00 hrs on weekdays and Saturday) and make use of the Park and Ride.